March 4–11, 1999
food|sidedish
Song With Your Supper
The fireplaceswere lit and the crystal chandeliers sparkled, reflecting theexquisite appointments in the various small dining rooms. Thestage was set for Deux Cheminees' and The Philadelphia Singers'dinner-musicale a few weeks back, celebrating the centennial birthdayof François Poulenc. In the adjoining townhouses designedby Frank Furness that comprise Deux Cheminees, renowned chef FritzBlank created a Belle Epoque event, featuring carefully researcheddishes that were in keeping with the life and times of Poulenc.Chansons by the composer, as well as some by Faure, Massenetand Ravel, were sung throughout the repast (we can only call itthat!) by Alyson Harvey, mezzo-soprano; Holly Phares, soprano;Gregory Cantwell, baritone; and the pianists Luke Housner andCarmelita Chu.
We especially enjoyed a rich chicken consommégarnished with sliced rolled crepes, and delectable oysters thatwere poached and gratinéed with a sauce Recamier, a classichollandaise with a reduction of the oyster liquor. These disheswere representative of fin-de-siècle cuisine, which wasrich and exotic. A sorbet of Pernod formed the intermezzo, itsanise flavor a perfect palate-clearer. Along with the crèmecaramel for dessert, there was quince paste and cherries in Calvados- more intriguing flavors.
The ambience of Deux Cheminees, so elegant, so Parisian,and so appropriate for these charming songs, may still not bethe best venue for listening. Spreading the music out over fiverooms tends to dissipate the lovely voices and encourage tablesideconversation. My opinion only, for I like my music unadulterated.Still, if this was not to be, I couldn't think of a more delightfullocation.
The Philadelphia Singers,215-751-9494; Deux Cheminees, 215-790-0200.
