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Also this issue: Icepack |
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June 20-26, 2002
naked city
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When you think of a trip to the beach, you may automatically think of the Jersey Shore. For once, don’t. Delaware is just as close, maybe a little bit prettier, and has some unique beaches well worth exploring. Duh, you say.
Everyone knows about Rehoboth. But in the name of journalism, I pointed the car south and kept driving past Rehoboth to two less explored and, on the surface, less instantly adorable seaside communities, about 140 miles away from Philly. Each has a totally different flavor from the other, and yet are close enough together so that you can visit them both in a weekend. And if it rains, you can always pop into a Delaware outlet mall for some tax-free, heavily discounted shopping.
Fenwick Island is the southernmost town in the state of Delaware, nestled in between the ocean and the bay. Fenwick Island is locally referred to as "The Quiet Resort," and for good reason: About 80 percent of the population is over 80, and therefore, the joint isn't exactly jumping. But if you want a pristine beach with hardly any people, get there this summer for some serious relaxation. For years, Fenwick Island was virtually inaccessible from the north or south, until Route 1 connected it to other towns. The town has maintained its own unique quality, charm and small-town atmosphere. A few original fishing shacks remain, now tucked in among larger beach homes. The town council has recently passed legislation to ensure that Fenwick doesn't turn into a town of tacky mini-motels by limiting new buildings to five bedrooms and four bathrooms.
It's a place determined to maintain its quiet, peaceful way of life. Only on Fenwick's beach can you look to your left and right and hardly see anyone else.
"That's what we strive for," says town administrator Barbara Hanrahan. "This is just a nice, nice place to live or vacation." Nice, nice and mellow being the operative words. Bring a lot of books for the beach, or your special someone. You probably won't hook up here. But you can work on your tan without any distractions from hotties.
Not a sunbather? The town has constructed a playground for small children on the grounds of the town hall, and offers volleyball, shuffleboard and basketball facilities for "kids" of all ages. Right next to the town hall is the Fenwick Islander, a sweet little motel (with a pool and kitchenettes), and right across the street from the Fenwick Islander is the beach entrance. I recommend packing food -- simple sandwich fare for beach lunches, and fruit and cereal -- and only going out to eat for dinner.
Fenwick's Sea Shipwreck Museum was founded with the goal of recovering and preserving maritime heritage. Slowly stroll and take in hundreds of artifacts recovered from Delmarva's shipwrecks and colonial past.
Fenwick's most recognized landmark is its lighthouse, built in 1859. Tours of the Fenwick Island Lighthouse are free all summer.
Sitting just outside the fence surrounding the Fenwick Island Lighthouse is the first stone set in place by commissioners of Maryland and Pennsylvania to mark the Transpeninsular Line of 1751. It's the oldest standing man-made object on the coast between Indian River Inlet, Delaware and Ocean City Inlet in Maryland and marks Delaware's southern boundary with the state of Maryland. That's not the biggest or most spectacular, just the oldest. The monument stone was erected in 1739 to end a century-old dispute between the founding families of Maryland and Pennsylvania. Through this old rock, I guess, they finally learned how to get along in a nice, nice way.
Can't take the slow pace of Fenwick? Ocean City, Md., is right across the Delaware-Maryland state line, placing it just a hop away from the "quiet resort."
O.C., though close, is totally different in tone from Fenwick (check out the webcam at www.oceancitycam.com). Could it be the boardwalk, loaded with greasy pizza joints, amusement arcades and ticky-tacky souvenir stands?
O.C. caters to young people (unlike Fenwick), and is packed with tons of motels and wild party bars, many of which won't even let people over 25 inside. Many of the clubs are 18 and up -- we stopped by the Ocean Club Restaurant and nightclub for some high school dance-flava. If your zen-like state of summer satisfaction can be found on a dimly lit dance floor, complete with pounding bass, dollar Yards and black lights, you'll find it in O.C. The city also has 24 golf courses (only a few on country clubs), so toss your clubs in the trunk and get down there.
The city has laws about all things wheeled -- no skateboards on the boardwalk. There is a skate park for those inclined to get vertical. Bike rentals are available on the boardwalk, or strap yours on the car. On the end of the boardwalk, check out the Life Saving Station Museum, which has a display of bathing suits dating back to the 1900s, and, live and in person, Davy Jones' Locker. And a few miles outside of O.C. lies Assateague Island, home to wild ponies. So cute! But don't feed or pet them. For that moment of serenity, remember that O.C. is bordered on both sides by water (the Atlantic on the east and Assawoman Bay on the west), making it possible to watch both sunrise and sunset. Sweet.
Ocean City is Maryland's only coastal community. The oldest part of Ocean City is at the southernmost tip of the island. As you meander the area below Division Street, look up, above the shops at street level. Cottages and small hotels still reflect the heritage of the early pioneers of this town. For decades, this strip was the hub of the resort.
From 1900 to 1915, the first of Ocean City's boardwalk was constructed. In the early days, the boardwalk was taken up and stored during the winter.
Today's boardwalk is a permanent walkway now spanning nearly three miles. In the early 1900s, Daniel B. Trimper and his brother, from Baltimore, started an amusement park. The park is still owned and operated by the Trimper family. Ride the Ferris wheel or the roller coaster, or try and knock the milk bottles down to win that elusive giant teddy bear.
