Country Time

room at the Inn: West Chester's Dilworthtown Inn retains much of its colonial character. Photo Coutesyof: Northlight Advertising

From where the Delaware River rises in New York State, until it flows into the Delaware Bay, it can move with torrential force or slide gently along its banks. Gentle is how it looks from a window at Odette's, one of New Hope’s landmark restaurants. Built in 1794 as a tavern for river boatmen, it still retains historic warmth, with dark wooden floors, beams and stone fireplaces. In the 1960s, it became a busy nightspot owned by Odette Myrtil Logan, a French actress, and it was a watering spot for many celebrities who appeared at the nearby Bucks County Playhouse. It is now run by the Barbone family, and some of the old joie de vivre of Odette has come back in their justifiably celebrated cabaret nights.

Many evenings of my youth were spent drinking grasshoppers, or such contrived drinks, on the lovely outdoor terrace here, but this evening it is cold and rainy, and besides, we want to see the show, so we sit in the Theater Room and are warmed by the fires burning on various hearths. There is a great view of the river from every one of the chintz-decorated rooms that ramble along the river's banks, except this one. Some were added as the restaurant expanded, but tonight the river is brown and sullen, so we look within, at the smiling young waitress, and at the menu, and we are pleasantly surprised. We had expected much more commercial reading, but the new young chef (so new that no one can remember his name) is trying very hard to do some more ambitious dishes. The wine list is limited, but fair, and we find a Mondavi Fumé Blanc Reserve that fits our purposes.

We start with a fresh watercress salad tossed with orange segments, shaved fennel, marinated mushrooms and teardrop tomatoes; it's green and gold, and needs only a little more flavor in the citrus vinaigrette to make it perfect. The lobster bisque has a good marine flavor, but lacks substance. It is simply too thin, and as with the salad, the chef seems timid in his seasonings. However, a vegetarian tart of crisp puff paste is laden with shiitake mushrooms, gorgonzola cheese and spinach, but all you can taste are the assertive sun-dried tomatoes.

We fare better with entrees, for the seared scallops, so much of a cliche these days, are positively lucent, and enhanced by an herbal mustard sauce that plays against the scallops' sweetness. Then, we are astonished by the prime rib -- a very large, very rare slab of meat oozing rosemary-flavored juices. It is a fine piece of meat and the portion is more than generous. On the herb-crusted salmon, there's just the right amount of citrus juices in the beurre blanc, but the salmon itself is too dry. A big bowl of orecchiette pasta is comforting -- tossed in a tomato broth with lots of fresh vegetables and lots of Asiago cheese to give it some oomph. The mashed potatoes that accompany most dishes are good, but pedestrian, as are the string beans.

Desserts present a pretty good amaretto cheesecake, a Belgian chocolate liquid-centered cake (when will they tire of this cake?) with ice cream, and a big, dark chocolate cake layered with chocolate ganache that is consumed completely by Hannah, my granddaughter.

Now comes the part we were awaiting -- the show. This night it's the songs of Deborajane Governor and her mother, Jennifer Platzkere Governor, a local duo. Deborajane, who happens to be a lawyer in her spare time, is an acquaintance of my daughter's, hence our attendance. They are so good I would hasten to see them anywhere in the future, for again, we are surprised. This extremely professional team not only sings beautifully, but their choices of songs are unexpected and thoroughly enjoyable. (And Hannah is so excited when the star says hello!)

As the weather warms, contemplate a day in New Hope, then a drink and dinner at Odette's, and stay for the show. One clearly does not come here for a great gourmet experience, but the attentive young waitresses who attend to you as the placid river slips by, and the promise of a first-rate little show done by someone famous or until then, unknown, can be all the impetus you need.

Picture yourself sitting within the stone walls of an ancient ruin, open to the sunlit sky of late June, sipping a cocktail. The tuxedo-clad waiter beckons to you to come into the dining room, for your table is ready. This is not Provence, but the setting of the Dilworthtown Inn, one of our area’s most spectacular dining experiences.

The stone-walled cocktail area once was a barn, and the main building has been an inn, on and off, since 1758, plundered by British troops at the Battle of Brandywine, and, as of 30 years ago, the proud result of many hours and many dollars' worth of work on the part of co-owners Jim Barnes and Bob Rafetto. The inn retains all the colonial charm that does not reflect conscious restoration; it looks as natural as it must have all those years ago. There is still no electricity in the dining areas, but gas light glows on the handmade chestnut tables and tavern-style chairs. The room in which we dine has one of three walk-in fireplaces, and pastels of various local buildings on the cream-colored walls.

Reading the award-winning wine list is one of the joys of the meal. It reflects about 9,000 bottles stored in the Inn's temperature-controlled wine cellar. It is expensive but not over-priced, and representative of the world's best wine areas. You can drink a Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay for $29, and a Montrachet for $557. Even $1,200 for 1961 Chateau Lafitte is not exorbitant, believe me, for in New York it would cost half again as much. But there are many in between, like the Edna Valley Chardonnay we chose. Of course, they also have a large selection of half bottles and wines by the glass.

The next joy you encounter is reading the large menu, and trying to decide which of chef Jason Barrowcliff's dishes sounds the most appealing. Tough decision, but we settle on the house paté, appearing as truffled triangles of dense and creamy duck liver paté accompanied by toast triangles and a sweet port wine syrup, and enough cornichons to cut the sweetness with their vinegar tang. It is a classic preparation, perfectly executed. Totally different but equally delicious is a lobster tail in an amazingly crisp tempura batter on a bed of baby spinach and aided and abetted by a wickedly spicy ginger and apricot dipping sauce.

The cuisine tends to be classic, but there are modern touches everywhere, like the use of Asian spices and techniques, or something entirely original like a tart topped with huge slices of meaty portobello mushrooms, over a filling of smoked bacon, melted leeks and buffalo mozzarella. (In case one flavor is missing, the tart comes ringed with balsamic syrup.) I can tell you exactly what is in the tart, because I am quoting the menu -- all the flavors melded so well that they were indistinguishable from one another.

We watch in disbelief while a waitress efficiently prepares a Caesar salad tableside. When was the last time you saw that done? We consider having it, but the meal includes a lovely house salad with an herbal vinaigrette and sprinkles of blue cheese.

We find the entrees do not disappoint. The breast of Hudson Valley duck is juicy, slightly gamy and tender, with accompaniments of caramelized cauliflower and a potato croquette, crisp on the outside and creamy within, and only natural jus on the duck. It is genius, for every individual taste comes through, and the duck is not obscured by a sweet, fruity sauce.

Sea scallops are everywhere, but this is an extremely tasty way of serving them -- on a bed of penne tossed with spinach, asparagus and a hint of sun-dried tomatoes. The juices from the barely gelled scallops mingle with the vegetables, to lend them a slightly marine tang.

How to describe a "terrine" of jumbo lump crabmeat? It is a mound of crabmeat, baked with no visible filler but perfectly formed. I suspect perhaps a dash of beurre blanc was added to its creamy sweetness, to moisten the herb toasted spaetzle and the pile of haricots verts beside them. There is also a coulis of mustard seeds to round it out. An unusual and satisfying dish, served, as was the entire meal, by a harmonious but never obtrusive staff.

When dessert rolls around, the captain rattles off a list of attractive, classic desserts, but we have seen him doing bananas Foster tableside for another party, and can't resist. We watch like delighted children while he flames the bananas and pours them over rich vanilla ice cream. Sometimes, the old things are the best things.

Jim Barnes grabs us for a tour of the inn and its latest projects. They are producing a signature line of gourmet condiments and an all-natural spice collection. The building across the road is called the Inn Keeper's Kitchen and is a fantastic space where they hold cooking classes by Chef Barrowcliff, a Johnson & Wales grad, or by guest chefs. It is also a space for private parties, and the area where they produce their two-toned wooden tables and handsome lanterns. It seems that practically everything here is for sale, but quietly so, for it does not scream commercial. Barnes also points out a building which is being made into a bistro-type operation. Dilworthtown Inn may be historic, but it has its face towards the future.

A crescent moon lights our way home, and reality seems very far away.

Odette's
South River Road, New Hope, Pa., 215-862-2432
Dinner, Mon.-Sat., 5-10 p.m.; Sun., 4-9 p.m.; Sunday Brunch, 10:30 a.m.-1:30 p.m.; Bistro menu available Mon.-Thu., 11:30 a.m.-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-5 p.m., 9-11 p.m.; Sun., 2-10 p.m.
Appetizers $5-$10; entrees $19-$28; cover for cabaret (weekends)
Wheelchair accessible. Reservations necessary. All major credit cards.

Dilworthtown Inn
1390 Old Wilmington Pike, West Chester, Pa., 610-399-1390
Dinner, Mon.-Fri., 5:30-9 p.m.; Sat., 5-9:30 p.m.; Sun., 3-8:30 p.m.
Appetizers, $8-$12.25; entrees $25-$35.25; some items prepared for two are higher.
Smoking in the lounge. Wheelchair accessible. Reservations necessary. All major credit cards.