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Also this issue: Arabian delights country time Summer is the perfect season to enjoy some of the finer restaurants in more leafy settings. |
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June 27-July 3, 2002
food
Abridged versions of recent reviews by Maxine Keyser
2321 Fairmount Ave., 215-765-0202
In this most stunning re-creation of a townhouse on Fairmount Avenue, Brian Augustine has built one of the most original and attractive restaurants in town. From the Mission details to the outdoor patio-cum-fountain, it is a delightful spot to indulge in some no-frills Cal-Italia cuisine. Freshness and authenticity prevail, from the sparkling salads through the brick-oven pizzas to the robust pastas. It resembles a New York restaurant, but the attitude is much friendlier.
4417 Main St., Manayunk, 215-482-3700
Main Street's most glamorous spot has a new face, a splendid new area, with a piano bar and doors that open to the street for alfresco dining. The food is the same -- huge portions of the freshest seafood and best dry-aged steaks. Kobe beef is the special -- and it's wonderful if you can afford it. Even Derek Davis' desserts are mammoth, so plan accordingly. The wine list features many wines under $40 to complement that sirloin or filet.
1120 White Horse Rd., Voorhees, N.J., 856-627-3700
In a strip mall in Voorhees, Laceno draws in the crowds with its friendly service and delicious casalinga. It's a busy place, with lots of brick and peachy walls, and the true bustle of a trattoria. The grilled veggies are great, and you must try the focaccia Laceno, as well as the Dover sole, prepared tableside. Bring wine and prepare for an evening of jolly Italian hospitality.
2 Waterview Rd., East Goshen, Pa., 610-918-9715
In the countryside of East Goshen, they are serving the best Spanish food in the area in a small, unpretentious spot owned and operated by the charming Javier Cuesta, a native of Seville. You must bring some Spanish wine, and choose from the many tapas, including Gypsy eggs and clams with fava beans. Try the rich fish and clam soup, and then the traditional paella, brimming with seafood. Cuesta serves a cuisine that is both ancient and modern, for he keeps up with the latest trends and gets the best products from Spain.
702-704 N. Second St., 215-627-7772
There's a little slice of Paris in Northern Liberties now, a charming evocation of a bistro with food that is more than just bistro cuisine. Stacey DiPlacido, the executive chef, has stretched herself to create an interesting and well-balanced menu, with unexpected combinations of taste and texture that elevate her cooking. She fully respects the seasons, so now the halibut with corn flan and the beautiful asparagus are stars. The ambience is pleasant, the prices of the food and the wine both are not too bad, and the food, I trust, will keep getting better all the time. Incidentally, the bar has become quite a late-night scene -- dim, smoky and very French.
314 York Ave., 215-627-6850
In a quiet corner of Northern Liberties, Radicchio serves all the same good home-cooking as its forebear Laceno in Voorhees, N.J., but in a more casual atmosphere that feels amazingly authentic. It too has excellent grilled vegetables, an exemplary insalata di mare, and cotoletta Milanese. Bring your own wine, and the waiters will make you feel right at home.
1511 Locust St., 215-546-0600
The famed chef Bruce Lim, formerly of Ciboulette and Susanna Foo, has opened a new place on Locust Street with a garish red neon sign that belies the atmosphere of his Asian fusion restaurant. The room is drab and quiet, and the menu is mainly Asian with French techniques and reasonable prices. Time will tell if Mr. Lim's crispy duck, sashimi platters, stuffed quail and sautéed lamb will bring in the public, who might expect a more French, more elegant spot.
8229 Germantown Ave., 215-247-2100
In lovely, tree-shaded Chestnut Hill, there is a new star in the firmament -- Stella Notte, a firmly grounded Italian restaurant in the style of the famed Al Forno. That means it has a casual air, wonderful wood-grilled items such as pizzas and clams and juicy steaks, and a solid, ingredient-driven menu. The executive chef is Aliza Green, a famous name around town already, and her thrust is for the freshest, best quality food, done simply and well. Even the desserts are good.
39 Morris Ave., Bryn Mawr, Pa., 610-526-9500
Looking very much like the interior of a luxury train itself, Tango offers some interesting track watching. In the heart of Bryn Mawr, you will find a more than adequate lunch menu, and dinners that, while they are nothing new, are fairly well-executed. The deck, on a summer day, should be quite pleasant, and there you can indulge in a cheeseburger or a great salad, and choose from the terrific wine list -- long, reasonable, varied and everything available by the glass!
221 N. 11th St., 215-592-1163
Completely renovated into a tasteful evocation of old Saigon, Vietnam now has the proper background for its light, delicious cuisine. The Lai family will be happy to assist you in choosing from their large selection of authentic dishes. Count on lots of grills scented with basil, mint and lemongrass -- a haven for dieters and gourmands alike.
