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Also this issue: Welcome to the Pub:
Mary Ellen and Chris Mullins Girlfriends:
Valerie Ferguson and Melonease Shaw Homeware for the Holidays:
Ken Foster Its Your Party Carm, All Ye Faithful The Feasting Begins World Party |
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December 12-18, 2002
cover story
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JOLLY'S AMERICAN BAR
135 S. 17th St., second floor, 215-563-8200
Don't think of it as a hotel dining room; just consider it a spot that happens to be in a hotel. It offers some of the same conveniences, such as long hours of service and availability of certain dishes throughout the day, but it is a casual watering hole and not meant for elegant dinners. They serve great burgers, the original Milan salad, and you won't find better ribs anywhere. Drinks are generous, as are the portions, and the black and red interior has a certain illicit charm. (Reviewed 11/14/02)
5 N. Columbus Blvd., 215-351-1898
LA VERANDA
On Pier 3, with a great view of the Delaware, La Veranda sits quietly, with a steady following and surprised new converts. It is like an old Italian restaurant in New York, with tuxedo-clad waiters, heavy drapes and amiable service. The grilled antipasto of vegetables is a must, and there are so many daily specials that it is hard to mention them at all. The fish is absolutely fresh, the meats are fine and the feeling of abbondanza exists throughout your visit. It's not cheap, but portions are large enough for two in many instances. (11/7/02)
637 N. Third St., 215-940-1222
PALETTE
Taking a second look at this little Northern Liberties spot was rewarding. David Fogelman's Franco-Comfort food, distinguished by special "wings" and a glorified grilled cheese and tomato soup combo that's perfect bar food, is interesting. In the dining room, the mac and cheese with short ribs is a signature dish, but there's a respectable steak frites, too. (10/24/02)
4411 Main St., 215-483-9400
SONOMA
A fixture on Main Street for 10 years now, full at lunch and dinner with everyone chowing down Derek Davis' "Italiafornia" cuisine, Sonoma's menu has gone organic, as have some of the wines and vodkas. Everything has a freshness and locality that is highly appreciated in these days of over-processed, out-of-season cooking. The sweetness of baby vegetables and the natural flavor of free-range chicken have never been more in demand. This sophisticated venue, of black granite and metal, great drinks and hapless waiters, is going into the next 10 years as a much better restaurant than it was when it started. (12/5/02)
1328 Pine St., 215-545-6265
VALENTINO
Outside and in, this looks thoroughly Italian, and most of the time the food is, too. It is noisy and tightly packed, for the food is good, the price is right, and it's near the Kimmel Center, the Academy and the theaters. Make friends with Mario, the friendly maître d', and you will enjoy his special antipasti, excellent carpaccio of beef, rack of lamb and duck. Pastas need work, but in an Italian restaurant, that should be no problem. Sticking to basics seems to be good advice here, and the cheery atmosphere can be infectious. (11/21/02)
East Afton and Delaware aves., Yardley, 215-493-3800
YARDLEY INN
Manhattan comes to Bucks County in the person of David Cunningham, who left the glamorous world of Lespinasse and Petrossian for the country life, and he has brought his imaginative, expert cuisine with him. This old, comfortable inn has never seen the likes of tuna tartare with ginger gelato, or oxtail agnolotti, or cheeses from the Basque country, but it doesn't seem unsettled by it. In fact, business is brisk, as well it should be, for a gracious welcome and a meal that can be hearty (braised lamb shank) or delicate (scallops with truffle reduction). (10/31/02)
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