Also this issue: Seeking The Master's Touch Much that's wonderful, but much that's still a work in progress at Lacroix. -Maxine Keyser

February 20-26, 2003

food

Grape Deals

by Peter Burwasser

Is there another commodity in the world that has the range of pricing that wine does? There is much talk in serious wine circles of declining prices in these lean days, but this really refers to boutique wines that were insanely overpriced in the first place.

It might be practical to think about wine in three categories: $10 and under per 750 mL bottle, $10-20 and everything over $20.

Alas, the truly distinguished under-$10 bottle is a rapidly dying breed. It is simply too expensive to make a hand-crafted wine these days, and so nearly everything in this price range is mass-produced, and tastes like it. The over-$20 category, on the other hand, belongs to collectors and style makers, and the relationship between quality and price is hazy. The most fruitful category is the $10-20 range. Here are three of my current favorites:

€ Domaine le Pigeonnier '99 ($13). Côtes du Rhône is one of the most versatile red wines you can buy. We recently tried to get into the BYOB Bella Vista bistro Pif without a reservation. No way, Pierre. Around the corner we went, Domaine le Pigeonnier in hand, to the new Mexican spot, Plaza Garibaldi. This warm, friendly wine, made from Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre grapes, matched beautifully with the robust and sometimes spicy food. Of course, Côtes du Rhône is also the prototypical French bistro quaff. On its own, Domaine le Pigeonnier has a bright, fruity and fresh mouth feel, with berries and nuts on the nose and a fine lingering finish.

€ Stony Bay Sauvignon Blanc '01 ($12). New Zealand, once perceived as an outpost of the Australian wine empire, has taken the wine world by storm with superb Sauvignon Blanc. This white wine type originates in the Loire Valley of France, and is typified by a crisp, mineral-laden bouquet that delights those of us who are worn down by overly aggressive California Chardonnay. Stony Bay has the essential Gallic quality of beautifully harmonized acidity and fruit, and a refreshing wisp of grapefruit flavors on the nose. This is a classic wine to pair with seafood, especially shellfish, but it works wonderfully as an aperitif as well.

€ Casa Lapostolle "Cuvée Alexandre," '98 ($18). The wines of Chile and Argentina are no longer the bargain-basement champs they once were, but the quality level is increasing rapidly with each harvest. There are oceans of mediocre Cabernet Sauvignon out there, but here is one that aspires to a higher level. This wine has a bold and complex mouth feel that bodes for aging potential, or as they say in wine-speak, it has solid structure. This is a beaut with rich, meaty winter fare, but I'm enjoying it all year round.

Next week: A tasting of wines under $10.