August 7-13, 2003

food

Fondest Formica

DOUBLE PARK: Baked vegetable lasagna with creamy milkshake at the Parkway Diner. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Can the Parkway Diner measure up to nostalgic countertop memories?

by Helen i-lin Hwang

My simple test for judging a restaurant is to reflect deep into my soul (or, ahem, stomach) to see if I want to come back for more as soon as I walk out the door. And diners -- where everyone’s a regular, returning for a favorite dish -- hold a cherished place in my heart, since I had worked at the Lite Bite Diner, now known as L.B. Daniels, in Medford, N.J., during high school and college breaks. For this trip, four of us -- Juliet Fletcher, Howard Altman, Lori Hill and myself -- decided to try the legendary Parkway Diner at 20th and Arch streets. Howard remembers it by its history as a reputed hangout for "prostitutes and cops." Recently, it’s gotten buzz for its Wednesday night DJ action, "Blue Plate Special," an effort by its new owners to jazz up the place. They’ve also added drink specials and faux wood panels decorated with photos of musicians at work.

We entered the 24-hour eatery with appetites whetted for some homey comfort food. Juliet described the decor as "classic diner non-chic, with marbled counter, peach upholstery and chrome trim." Sitting at the counter were no cops or hookers on a break, (though we did spot David Dye, host of XPN's World Café). Indeed, the only guy in uniform was our waiter, who wore the standard white-shirt-with-dark-apron outfit, reminding me of my old maroon one. He seated us at a booth with squishy cushions, and I was glad to be doing the sitting instead of the standing.

The "appes," as I used to write in my little order book, arrived and sent foreboding signals for the rest of the meal. Lori's garden salad ($5.95) was a "solid mix of romaine and iceberg leaves, tomatoes and the usual salad suspects [but] sans dressing." The sweet, distracted waiter offered oil and vinegar after he presented the salad, and only brought the condiments after giving a new waitress a basic behind-the-counter orientation. Howard's Greek salad ($5.95) had a dressing which "lacked the requisite vinegary tang," usually the best part. The basic elements -- feta cheese, olives and onions -- were there but seemed to miss the robustness of other Greek salads, such as the ones my Greek former diner boss Danny used to make. Juliet's red bean and lentil soup had hearty chunks but the "broth itself was quite thin."

The wings ($4.95) were "pale and limp" as Lori aptly put it, but the sauce had remnants of the zing that make Buffalo wings so addictive. As Howard noted, the sauce was "served almost as an afterthought," poured on rather than cooked with the meat. The four of us still managed to finish most of the paltry poultry.

For our main entrees, we tried everything from sandwiches to prime rib. The chicken Parmesan sandwich ($7.25) -- or, in waitress slang, "chix Parm" -- was scrumptious with its fresh, spongy roll and chicken breast covered in just the right amount of delectable tomato sauce. While the dish is a healthy alternative without fried breading, the chicken, however, retained some of its chewiness, indicating it hadn't been tenderized. The savory sauce made me wonder if we might be missing out on some potentially fine pasta offerings.

Mini meals, which include an entree, two vegetable side dishes and a dessert, are good values. Juliet tried the baked vegetable lasagna ($7.95) presented in a "large, oval deep dish," with "pasta twists as well as carrots and rich tomato sauce" that enhanced the traditional pasta layers: a nice touch you won't find in many lasagnas. We all partook of the casserole and commented on how delicious it was but Juliet pointed out that it was "lacking in greens," sorely missed in a veggie dish. Unfortunately, the server forgot to bring the side dishes -- broccoli and potato salad -- which would've helped with the lack of chlorophyll.

The prime rib ($14.95) was "tasty" and cooked to a perfect "medium rare," according to Howard. The queen cut, tender and substantial, was the "diner's best offering" in spite of the fact it was left cooling on a nearby tabletop for 10 minutes while the server waited for Howard to finish off his salad. (Danny would've never allowed that.) Timing seemed to be an issue, since sides like French fries and mashed potatoes were cold.

Lori's crab cakes were the biggest disappointment. "Underdone and mashed into a spiced pabulum," she had to send them back for further cooking. Unfortunately, they came back "no less mushy" and for $12.95, you'd expect something more than what Lori says resembled "two large mounds of hot slaw." Lori's chocolate milkshake ($2.75), though, was "comforting and delicious" topped with a "dollop of yummy whipped cream" which also blessed my rice pudding ($1.50). The whipped cream was actually the best part of my dessert. Juliet's chocolate milk ($1.75), meanwhile, was a bottomless glass.

To feed four hungry adults, the total cost of the meal was a reasonable $64 for several courses, but though there were some enjoyable highlights, the "culinary experience," as Lori put it, "was so touch-and-go." The yearning for some good diner food remained unsatiated and none of us are looking to walk back through the Parkway Diner's door as regulars anytime soon.

THE PARKWAY DINER

20th and Arch sts., 215-568-4939

Appetizers, $3.25-$5.95; entrees, $7.95-$17.95

Open 7 days a week, 24 hours a day

Wheelchair accessible. Smoking is permitted. Reservations accepted. All major credit cards.