September 4-10, 2003

food

A Fine Line

SCOOP DU JOUR: A chicken and black bean burrito, tailored to spec, prepares to roll off the production line. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Washington Square’s El Fuego is a model of customized culinary efficiency.

by Patrick Rapa

They say the 20th century was born on Henry Fordís assembly line. Never mind that he didnít invent the idea -- it was in his Michigan factory that bloody, sweaty, tearful workers learned to toil laterally: One guy attaches the steering wheel, another affixes a windshield, somebody else puts on the hubcaps. Eventually, you have a Model T. Repetition of the process equals rhythmic mass production, speed, competence, more cars.

It's the 21st century now, of course, and robots make our Daewoos without even breaking a sweat. But there are still places where human hands and a well-organized assembly line are absolutely necessary to produce marvelous results -- with modern allowances for customization.

One such versatile industrial complex is Washington Square's popular El Fuego restaurant. Ford, were he alive today and in good spirits, would be proud of the efficiency with which hand-held Mexican foods are created on demand. (He'd probably object to the workers being paid a fair wage, though, because that's just the kind of man he was.)

Your journey begins in a long afternoon queue in front of orderlies from Jefferson and behind workaday hipsters from nearby publishing companies. Do not be discouraged by the line's seemingly interminable length, for even the dastardly quesadilla cannot keep your lunch creators from quickly executing their appointed tasks. This is a fine opportunity to scope out the dining area. El Fuego only has a couple of booths and a few large wooden tables. There is a decent chance that you will end up eating at the same table as people you do not know. You can handle it, you were built Ford tough.

Once the lowly tail, you will soon become the all-important head of the queue, where you'll find yourself standing across from the stainless steel tortilla press. Tell the press agent your order. He or she will flatten and cook the tortilla and pass it down. From there things move quickly: Somebody doles out small piles of meat, rice and beans. The next couple of mechanics add laces of lettuce and shredded cheese, dollops of sour cream, fresh salsa and such, all at your request, since your future lunch never leaves your sight. Finally somebody wraps up your burrito and binds it in foil, to prevent eruption. A cashier at the end rings you up.

"There's never the sense that your fixins have been sitting around," observes Lori Hill. "The restaurant does such a swift business there's no time for the food to get soggy and wilted."

The options at El Fuego are decidedly limited. Your main dishes are sizable burritos ($5-$5.50), quesadillas ($3.50-$4.75), soft tacos and crispy tacos stuffed with tasty cubes of chicken, chorizo and beef, beans or shreds of spicy beef ($4.75-$5.25).

That last one seems to be the most popular, at least among City Paper staffers, who tend to make at least one trip per week to El Fuego. (While the place does have takeout menus, they do not accept orders over the phone, not even for pickup.) "The spicy beef is perfectly seasoned, it's delicious and has just the right amount of kick to it," sings Debra Auspitz. "When matched with the salsa fresca and a touch of melting shredded cheese, the freshness of the tomatoes and the succulent, never-tough beef combine to make possibly the world's finest soft taco."

"The burritos are the perfect size," opines Nancy Armstrong. "Not so big you that feel like a house when you leave, but big enough to be a perfect lunch."

Juliet Fletcher prefers the veggie soft tacos with black beans. "As they're not overstuffed, they're not associated, in my mind, with the heavyweight Mexican food I'm used to. They're light. Lettuce fans out beneath the bread, and with the salsa, connives to break up the beans," she says, as if composing a poem.

Still if you want something more, chips ($1.25) and three kinds of salsa (the aforementioned traditional fresca, plus a green tomatillo and a fiery chipotle tomatillo, $1 each) are available. That there is your sides menu.

"The chips are not too salty, but they're no bland Baked Tostitos, either -- and they're certainly not tainted with lime," Lori notes. This allows the salsa and guacamole to dominate the taste. "I could subsist on the guacamole at this place. It's thick, flavorful and it's just the loveliest shade of green."

Besides its cuisine, El Fuego also scored high for its butt-shaped stools (which are backless, but still comfortable) and its curiously non-Mexican soundtrack. At any moment you may hear Patti Smith or Radiohead. "The music is pleasingly hip," says Lori. "After all, at home I eat burritos to early Elliott Smith, so why not when I go out?"

El Fuego

723 Walnut St., 215-592-1901

Sides and extras, $.75-$2.75; burritos, tacos and quesadillas, $3.50-$5.50

Mon.-Fri., 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Not wheelchair accessible. Smoking is not permitted. Reservations not necessary. All major credit cards.