Open House

All in the Family: Paul Morelli stands by his jewelry boutique, located on the site of his parents' former costume shop.

Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Paul Morelli's jewelry is now on display to the public in Philly, bringing a nationally recognized business back home.

by Alex Richmond

The typical story of artists who specialize in luxury goods is one of starting out small, then launching their wares into national department stores. In jeweler Paul Morelli's case, things worked out a little bit differently. The Philadelphia native has had a working studio here since he started out in Old City in 1976 (back when it was Olde). Five years ago, he moved his design studio to Center City. But while Morelli has always been local in proximity, his work is mostly known to a national audience. Now he won't be able to fly under the radar in Philly anymore, as he's throwing open the doors of his Walnut Street studio to the public. Well, you may have to be buzzed in.

Incorporated in 1982, Morelli has sold his wares to high-end department stores like Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman and Henri Bendel, along with smaller boutiques. Now his customers (the more famous ones include David Bowie, Bette Midler, Stevie Nicks and Shania Twain) can walk into the location where the product is made, and walk out with a new piece for their collection. It wasn't like that in the beginning.

Old City used to be a bit of a ghost town. "We really liked Old City in the beginning. [Then] it got to a point where -- be careful what you wish for, like, "Wouldn't it be great if people moved in?' It used to be the only thing you could get to drink or eat was out of a machine. There were always bars, but no one ever lived there. Finally it was so overrun, we had to get out of there. At the same time, my dad, who is a theatrical costume designer, was thinking of selling his building and retiring. We thought we'd take it and keep it in the family." Morelli's father still has a warehouse on the third floor, and currently helps put the window displays together. Morelli's brother, Stephen, works as the store manager, too.

Upon moving into his current location on Walnut Street, Morelli found himself working with the public more than he had before. Increasing local interest put pressure on him to open a retail location.

He says, "When we moved into this building, we passively were forced into working with the public. We did a lot of national advertising, and people would call and ask if they could come in. So, we opened the retail location. I wouldn't call it a jewelry store, I'd call it a studio where we sell the jewelry we design. Or a boutique, or a gallery."

The new retail space fits somewhere between a gallery and a boutique. It's stunningly austere. The blond birch wood floors and tall paneling (which masks the offices behind) are a perfect backdrop for Morelli's jewelry, most of which is on the road with salesmen. Only a few pieces are out, but that's enough to get a taste of Morelli's work, and to want more. The walls are kept bare except for a few posters. One is from the New York City Ballet and DeBeers, honoring Morelli's donations over the last year, near Morelli's certificate of membership in the Council of Fashion Designers of America. Another wall, around the corner by the offices, holds two decades' worth of print advertising and editorial coverage.

Morelli is best known for his work in diamonds and 18-karat gold, but he also creates ruby and turquoise pieces, works in coral and electroplates gold to make it look blackened. The diamonds, naturally, are the most sparkling and exquisite.

Morelli's product has recently been more in demand -- his pieces were requested by the Sex and the City costume department to be used this season. Some of what he supplied to the show is deemed "classic," like his gold banana-leaf cuff bracelet (Kim Cattrall will wear it on the show); other pieces are newer and just fabulous, like the seven-strand bronze tourmaline bib necklace worn by Cynthia Nixon.

Sex and the City is hands down the most fashion-savvy show on television, and always sets trends rather than follows them. Though Morelli has been around for a while, the exposure from the show and the opening of his new store will launch him further into the spotlight. Yet he doesn't seem to want it that way. Morelli is atypically modest, and seems a little reluctant to work with the general public. "If I had my druthers," he says, "I'd be exclusive about who comes in."

Paul Morelli, 1118 Walnut St., 215-922-7392.

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