November 13-19, 2003

food

Northern Star

Near and DEER: Dunmire brought esoteric influences to N. 3rd's menu, but kept the "really good" wings as they were. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

He may have trained in Paris, but for now, Peter Dunmire kicks back in Northern Liberties.

by Deborah Bolling

For executive chef Peter Dunmire, the most important ingredient in all of his recipes is simplicity.

For just over a month, Dunmire has been cooking the classic neighborhood fare at N. 3rd, a popular two-year-old Northern Liberties bar/restaurant -- which belies the fact that he’s used to preparing food that’s a bit more upscale.

"I have a pretty good résumé," Dunmire says, without even a hint of arrogance. "I was the opening chef at the Blue Angel and at Rouge. And I was a sous chef at Brasserie

Perrier. But I really like it here."

Trained at La Varenne in Paris, the 36-year-old has a repertoire that includes a wide array of fish dishes and velvety sauces, the hallmark of traditional French cooking. At N. 3rd, however, messy finger foods get top billing.

"Here, they want me to do good bar food," he says. "You know, chicken wings, quesadillas, ribs. These are the neighborhood favorites -- and that’s fine with me. I admit, I’ve changed the sauce for the ribs a bit, but I’m not gonna change the wings at all. They’re really good the way they are. In fact, I eat them all the time myself -- I live only a few blocks away."

Originally from King of Prussia, Dunmire says that, having lived in Philadelphia for the past 18 years, he’s now comfortable saying he’s from here.

"My favorite line is: This is my favorite place to leave and come home to, at the same time," he laughs.

The No-Libs neighborhood, once the domain of Philly’s blackened smokestacks, is now home to trendy restaurants, cafés and art galleries. A house that sold for $50,000 two years ago goes for $450,000 today. So N. 3rd has found itself located in the right place at the right time -- and so has Peter Dunmire.

Dunmire left the restaurant scene three years ago, a year after his son was born. Just recently, he returned to the world of food and spirits when he started bartending at Bar Noir. Soon after that, he decided to return to the kitchen.

"People had been trying to get me to go back to cooking for a really long time," he says. "But it meant more to me to be with my son."

Now that his son is 4, Dunmire says he feels comfortable returning to full-time work.

N. 3rd owner Mark Bee says he’s glad to have Dunmire back in his kitchen.

"Peter lives right down the street and I’d heard lots of good things about him," Bee says. "So I called him. I’m happy I did."

Living and studying in France for just under two years, Dunmire says he learned in depth the nuances of food and culture.

"In France, everything closes for two hours -- just so that people can eat lunch!" he says. "The importance of eating well is ingrained in the people. They still have an agriculturally friendly government and they still adhere to the age-old traditions of food preparation, instead of looking for faster foods and faster ways to make money -- like they do here. There, people respect the man who raises the chickens because they’re the best chickens you can find. He doesn’t have a lot of money, but he does have the admiration of the people. That means a lot."

With ethnic food eateries springing up all over the city, Dunmire says he’s glad to see Philadelphians experimenting with their taste buds.

"People are becoming more aware of what they’re eating, and more educated about food in general," he says. "People are opening up to ethnic foods -- just look at Washington Avenue. In the last few months, even a salsa ballroom and three Mexican restaurants have sprung up there. The reason that kind of food is showing up [in that neighborhood] is because that’s where they do that kind of food best. I want to do what I do best. I don’t want to mimic what other people do."

For Dunmire, N. 3rd has been a welcome return.

"I’m comfortable here," he says. "Nice people, good work environment. You don’t have to employ a lot of people to produce the food. It’s a lot simpler [than larger restaurants] and more accessible to a wider audience. Plus, it’s not an aggressive work environment; everybody is laid back. Here, I can wear a dishwasher’s shirt, rather than an embroidered chef’s jacket."

As for his food, Dunmire has one simple objective: making sure it tastes good.

"I’m into seasoning things properly," he explains. "I’m into making a good starch, a good vegetable and good sauces. If you can focus on those three things, you’ll make good food. I like to keep it simple. I know it doesn’t sound exciting, but too few restaurants focus on preparing food right. As for myself, I want to be part of the revitalization of salt and pepper."

N. 3rd, 810 N. Third St., 215-413-3666.