November 20-26, 2003

food

Upping the Ante

SEAFOOD SYMPHONY: Cadence's iced seafood platter features a medley of oysters, shrimp, clams, mussels and Maine lobster. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Cadence rephrases pre-performance dining for a whole new audience.

by Maxine Keyser

In the dictionary, "cadence" is defined as a "rhythmic flow of a sequence of sounds or words; the pattern in which something is experienced." So, it is fitting that Cadence, the restaurant in the Kimmel Center, has the same sweep of modernity that the outside of the building and the soaring lobby possess. Rafael Viñoly’s internationally acclaimed design has placed Cadence on the second tier of the home of The Philadelphia Orchestra, with grand views of the Avenue of the Arts from the picture windows and, even better, from the outside terrace. The clean lines of the lobby are echoed in the smoked-glass tables, and comfortable pumpkin-colored, aluminum-fitted chairs. The feeling is Danish modern -- with gauzy fabrics stretched over entrances to various sections of the large room, and bright yellow circles that resemble trampolines stood upright as other dividers. The walls are crenelated or paneled, depending on where you sit, and the acoustics are such that even when the room is full, it is not overly noisy.

The staff, under the aegis of General Manager Steve Bergquist and Restaurant Manager Nick DiSilvestro (formerly of Opus 251), runs smoothly and our meal proceeds in a stately fashion. Checking out the wine list, we find that a glass of Shale Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon and an unusual Côtes du Rhône Blanc will do for starters. The list itself, partly American and partly French, features nothing below $32 a bottle, with a $70 Mersault and a $98 bottle of the famed Lebanese Chateau Musar. They could do with some less expensive labels.

Adagio -- allegro molto

We receive a small baguette tied in a gauze ribbon, a softening effect in a room that can be a trifle austere, and an amuse-bouche of blue cheese mousse on an apple crisp. Our drinks are generous, and we sip them slowly. Cadence bills itself as a contemporary French brasserie, and the direction of the menu is indeed French. Chef Ron True, a native of California, experienced the "grass roots of cooking" there, and at the Union Square Café in New York, but when he was accepted into a culinary program at La Varenne's Burgundian school, he learned his French techniques. After traveling Europe, always learning, he did a brief stint in New York, and now he is here at Cadence, with his own culinary approach. Our salad of Bibb lettuce, studded with sliced apples and spiced cashews, has a hefty Roquefort dressing. From the raw bar, which incidentally features an iced seafood platter of oysters, shrimp, clams, mussels and Maine lobster (a good pre-concert choice), I get Yakima Bay oysters. Served on crushed ice and garnished with shredded daikon, they are sweet and pristine. We've eschewed tuna tartare, marinated beets with goat cheese and a lump crab cake to nibble on a splendid terrine of foie gras. Obviously homemade, it is rosy, creamy and unctuous, complemented by the sweet slather of fig jam that comes on the side. I really had not expected anything this sophisticated, but I must have underestimated Mr. True, for his dishes are nothing if not sophisticated.

Scherzo -- allegro vivace

When faced with such Gallic choices as coq au vin (with lardons) or pan-roasted skate, I will invariably go for the skate. I love its buttery flesh, bathed in even more butter, tinged with verjus (the juice of the "must" of the grapes after pressing). There are fingerling potatoes, salsify, spinach and haricots verts to sop up the juices. There are even edamame, which True sprinkles about like tourmalines, as on a partner's seared scallops. I admire his use of accents that are not totally French, like couscous with the lamb tagine, and lobster mashed potatoes under the wild salmon, but glad that he reverts to form for the potato gratin that accompanies another friend's filet mignon -- a rare chunk of beef in a sauce au poivre that is perfectly balanced. And for those who like their food more homey, there are short ribs braised in red wine with mashed potatoes.

Finale -- andante

Unfortunately, our symphony must only have three movements, and we are too stuffed to sample the house special, homemade ice-cream cones. We go with a trio of sorbets -- one of them is verjus -- very puckery and different. On our next trip, there's the tarte tatin, or the chocolate cadence, or even the pot de créme.

Coda: Why has this chic and well-conceived restaurant not become a destination in its own right? They have a reasonable lounge menu that features onion soup and cheeseburgers. They have a delectable prix fixe brunch on Sundays. They have a lunch menu that includes many of the dinner dishes, plus some lighter fare. And they have a happy hour every Wednesday from 5:30 to 7:30 p.m. People must realize that a fine restaurant, located in this landmark building, deserves its own audience. Of course, with the plummy strains of The Philadelphia Orchestra, it's so much better. Perhaps if they played its recordings when the Orchestra is absent Who knows, I'm only suggesting going along with the flow of Cadence.

Cadence, Kimmel Center, 260 S. Broad St., 215-670-2388

Appetizers, $7.50-$14; entrees, $19-$29

Tue.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (matinee performances only) and 5-8 p.m.; Sunday brunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.

Wheelchair accessible. Smoking is not permitted. Reservations suggested. All major credit cards except Discover.