January 8-14, 2004

food

Renaissance Man

LIFE IN THE SHADE: Ralph Berarducci, seated in the dining room of Portofino, says his secret to serving good food is to focus on "detail." Photo By: Mike Mergen

A Minnelli tantrum, an ad hoc TV network -- and how Ralph Berarducci has survived 30 years on Walnut Street.

by Alex Richmond

Philadelphia has undergone such a dizzying restaurant renaissance in recent years that it may have been easy to overlook Portofino, tucked away on Walnut Street in the heart of the theater district. For 32 years, Portofino has been producing subtly artful, delicious Italian fare that isn't properly announced by the building's old-school façade. Perhaps the real face of Portofino is the face of owner Ralph Berarducci, who at 67 could be to Philadelphia restaurateurs what Robert Evans is to Hollywood -- meaning, he started from nothing, no one thought he would make it and he has persevered in spite of the odds. And, like Evans, he has a lot of great stories to tell.

Berarducci came to America from Abruzzo, Italy, on a tourist visa, but took a job at the Barclay Hotel in Philadelphia after a few months. Wasting no time, and with only nine months of practical experience, he opened his first place, Pinocchio, on the ground floor of a brothel in Center City. No one thought he would make it -- even the madam was looking forward to getting the spot back from him. But after a good review, he found he had lots of patrons and a shot at success.

Berarducci says his heavily accented English isn't perfect, but it's as charming and silky smooth as Portofino's homemade pasta. He dresses impeccably, always in a jacket, even at lunch. He wears large gold-rimmed eyeglasses, often looking over the frame to lock you in his gaze and more emphatically make a point. As one can tell by eating at Portofino, Berarducci is a man who has refined his knowledge to a few succinct points, which he underscores by gently pounding the table.

"The secret -- my secret -- to serving good food, and to be successful in business, is detail. Detail in the kitchen means two things. Talent, and buying fresh every day. Then in the dining room, there's a lot of details. Our trademark is quality, value and service."

Though Portofino has a wonderfully equipped staff and an ingratiating maitre d' in Boris Radivoievici, Berarducci hangs out and handles the everyday details at Portofino. And over the years, there have been more than a few.

There was the time Liza Minnelli slapped her boyfriend at the table, and he walked out on her. She burst into tears. Who dried them? Ralph Berarducci. Actor Peter Falk stole the girlfriend of a Portofino regular who was dining at a nearby table -- and later became her husband. Don Rickles called from Atlantic City and demanded a television at his table that night so he could watch the Dodgers in the playoffs -- but there was no reception in Center City, and no cable to provide it. Berarducci approached the high-rise apartment building across the street, and rigged a wire across Walnut so Rickles could watch his game. When a waitress tipped the comedian off to the lengths Berarducci had gone to please his customer, Rickles was so grateful he mentioned Portofino when he guest-hosted The Tonight Show, and in his act in Atlantic City. Of course, Frank ate there too. Both of them -- Sinatra and Rizzo.

Berarducci says he wants to write a book about his life, starting when the FBI mistakenly took him into custody when he stepped off the ship from Italy; they confused him with someone else. The conclusion of his book is still far off, though. Berarducci wants to see Portofino go through its own renaissance.

In 2001, the dining room was made over to be more elegant and competitive with the burgeoning restaurant scene. The decor is now comfortably luxe, with a huge mirror, brocade walls and bronze wall sconces. But a room won't keep customers coming back -- good food will.

While Portofino is open for dinner seven days a week, do yourself a favor and stop in during the week for lunch. The lunch specials are amazing. Two pastas are $6.95 (which includes soup or salad and a coffee or soda), and two seafood dishes are just $8.50. Both selections are dinner-sized entrees. The quality and artistry of chefs Ray Moscardelli, Robert Cholminski and Guiseppe Afalconio (who has served the pope, and is a professor emeritus at the culinary school in Abruzzo) are unmatched. On a recent trip, I enjoyed blackened salmon with a beurre blanc sauce, served with grilled fennel, sauteed spinach, squash and a fresh tomato pomodoro -- for $8.50. You won't find a better deal anywhere.

Berarducci is aware that the dining room at Portofino is less crowded than it used to be. Yet he doesn't worry about the competition. He's seen a lot of change, and is prepared to hang in there until people recognize once again that he knows how to do it right.

"Thirty years ago, it was Le Bec-Fin, and a lot of family-style restaurants. Now, everyone is trying to beat each other out with being newest and most elegant. We're still strong."

Portofino, 1227 Walnut St., 215-923-8208.