Firstlook: Medusa

by A.D. Amorosi

From the outside, Medusa seems an imposing presence: the cool "speakeasy" attitude, the numbers scribbled creepily on the side of the building that loosely resembles a fallout shelter, the basement boîte allure. But this 21st Street location has been the home of several friendly places before John Falcetta -- of N.Y.C.’s Il Vagabondo family fame -- took it over. First, it was the funky date-space, circa 1971, Frankie’s Pizzeria, then the candlelit, swanky J.J.’s Grotto Restaurant and Jazz Club. The venue (which was, most recently, Alex’s Underground) played host to Philly’s finest, baaadest players. Now, under new guidance, Medusa intends to keep up the covertness (to an extent) while maintaining a sense of humor for what Falcetta’s tagged "the best dive bar in history."

Once you make your way through the apple-red foyer and black-lit staircase onto the checkerboard floor, the aptly named Medusa has a mythological feel that ripples through its 700 square feet. There’s a Haring-like tribal playhouse of winding goddesses, devil faces, mashed monsters and slithery snakes painted by 15-year-olds from the Ogontz Avenue Art Company. You’ll squirm in delight to the merry Mafioso sight of a 24-hour loop of The Godfather, parts one and two ("Not three," laughs Falcetta), on video monitors -- watch while seated on one of a dozen oversize molded plastic chairs. If you’re feeling taproom-y, you can sit at the red wooden bar, with a backdrop of hanging mannequin body parts, icy blue heat vents and strings of cable-held, colorful work lights. Try ordering Falcetta’s patriotic happy-hour special (free beer and champagne until the U.S. troops stationed in Iraq come home) or partaking in dishes offered on a blackboard’s daily menu (like Campbell’s Noodle Soup, Dinty Moore stew and Spaghetti-Os). If you’re allowed into Medusa’s hallowed back room -- the V.I.P. "R.I.P." Grotto -- you’re welcome to indulge yourself on comfy black leather couches, while surrounded by fanged python heads, Presley rugs and zebra curtains, all illuminated by candles and the sounds of aquatic house and raunchy rock ’n’ roll.

Medusa, 27 S. 21st St., 215-988-9255.

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