February 26-March 3, 2004

food

Pinot Players

TERROIR ALERT RED: Oregon's geography and climate help Williamette Valley Vineyards re-create conditions needed to grow and bottle pinot noir. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Pinot noir-producing vineyards in California and Oregon are moving in on Burgundy competitors.

by Peter Burwasser

The red wines of Burgundy are at once blissfully simple in concept and intriguingly subtle in execution. Unlike Bordeaux, where as many as five grape varieties are blended in the time-honored styles of a handful of grand chateaus, almost all red wine from Burgundy consists exclusively of pinot noir. (The only exception is the humble and ridiculously over-hyped Beaujolais). And Burgundian vintners do not go much for newfangled New World technique; the idea is for the wine to make itself.

The complexities of Burgundy derive from the fantastic history of the place, where ancient patterns of economics and culture retain a tenacious hold. There are thousands of often tiny vineyards crammed into limited real estate, especially on the fabled Côte d'Or. Serious aficionados will argue about the merits of one hillside versus another. The currently chic concept of "terroir," an essentially untranslatable French word that refers to the general philosophy of winemaking, but particularly the soil and climate conditions of a given area, is taken as seriously here as it is anywhere in the world.

Generalizations about Burgundy or, as it is known in the New World, simply pinot noir, are thus dangerously proffered. Here is this wine lover's personal view: Pinot noir can make for the most sensuous, multilayered, beautiful wine of all. I look for a delicate nose full of red fruit perfumes, presented with extraordinary depth and a velvety and lingering mouth feel.

Outside of France, pinot noir is cultivated with loving care in several New World outposts, including New Zealand and especially the American Northwest, from the Northern California coast up to Oregon. It is an unforgiving grape, truly thin-skinned and easily diseased, so making wine from pinot noir is both a labor of love and a notable professional challenge. Therefore, truly distinctive pinot noir tends to be expensive, with cult wines soaring easily into the triple figures. Common wisdom would have us believe that true Burgundy is unattainable for less than $35 (especially given the current strength of the euro), where the same price point for American pinot noir is about $25.

For this tasting, five bottles from the U.S. West Coast were chosen, ranging in cost from $10 to $20 (at Stalinist state store prices), to defy this truism. As well, un Bourgogne vrai was included as a benchmark chosen with the enthusiastic assistance of Greg Moore, of Moore Bros. Wine. Comments of the nine tasters are included in quotes. In order of preference:

Bearboat '01 (California/Russian River Valley) $20

This "big ol' fella" was impressive in every way, with a huge, heady, berry-infused bouquet and a "buttery" mouth feel. Delightful and fun to drink for the host. But at least one taster found it all too much, referring to Bearboat as not unlike "meatballs and sauce, a meal in a glass." Everyone liked the cute label.

Volnay-Santenots '84 (France) $39

Another wonderful noseful, berries again, but also the famous barnyard bouquet, "slightly fetid," "hamster cage" and "les champs sont ... quoi?" Fruit leaning toward blackberry, cherry and plum, with color fading from red to brown. Long, dreamy finish. In short, a "complex, serious" bottle of grape juice. The host's fave.

Kings Ridge '01 (Oregon) $18

Like many of these young wines, this one changed dramatically in the glass, from "thin," "bitter" and "practically no bouquet" to "super fruity" and "peppery" as it opened up. A quaff with personality, to be sure, although "loud and shrill, like drinking olives" seemed to be a unique reaction.

Willamette Valley Vineyards '00 (Oregon) $18

From a highly regarded region for growing pinot noir, this perky wine showed a "nuttiness and spice at the top, sweet cream finish with a hint of vanilla," and gave one taster "a bit of a start," while another detected "bitter almonds." An unusual nose for the host, with distinct liquor tones, notably bourbon.

Turning Leaf Coastal Reserve '01 (California/ North Coast) $10

Although pricing was not revealed during the tasting, most recognized this ubiquitous Gallo product. Several damned the stuff as almost like "cheap Chianti" and even "Snapple." But more than half the tasters put this wine in the upper half of the group, citing "big flavors, fruit and chocolate," and "surprising complexity." And such a deal!

MacMurray '01 (California/ Sonoma) $17

Yes, indeed, this winery was founded by Fred MacMurray of My Three Sons fame. But don't listen to dad when it comes to pinot noir. In a strong field, "the only one that doesn't please," "like a dwarf vampire biting you," and "smells old, tastes young." So, hardly bland, but "woody, like cranberry shrub twigs" is probably not what Fred was going for.