March 11-17, 2004

food

Brought to Book

MING DYNASTY: Ming Tsai brings his East-meets-West recipes to Susanna Foo, as part of this year's Book and the Cook festival. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Day by day, The Book and the Cook proves it can still lay on a feast.

by Maxine Keyser

People never like to admit when they are wrong, but in this case I must.

For years now, I have been predicting the imminent demise of The Book and the Cook, but it's back again, seemingly as strong as ever. In fact, it came upon me so suddenly this year that I won't even be here for most of it, but at least I can suggest where I would be going.

On Fri., March 12, the first day of the festival, there are two good choices that should be major draws. Giuliano Bugialli, the talented and ubiquitous author of Foods of Naples and Campania, will cook in Pompeii's chic new quarters, and I think the chef there will be able to translate his work properly (1113 Walnut St., 215-829-4400). Then, the combination of John Mariani (The Italian-American Cookbook) and Ralph Fernandez at the Moshulu should sizzle. Good chef meets good writer in opulent surroundings: I like it (401 S. Columbus Blvd., 215-923-2500).

Make it lunch on Sat., March 13. First, there's the always-reliable Patricia Wells at Le Bec-Fin, who knows all the ins and outs of French cooking (1523 Walnut St., 215-567-1000). I would choose Marcus Samuelsson of Aquavit in New York, at the Fountain in the Four Seasons Hotel, because I've never tasted his take on Scandinavian cuisine (1 Logan Square, 215-963-1500). At dinner, Michael Romano of Union Square Cafe in New York will work with Terence Feury at The Grill in the Ritz-Carlton, and it could be really interesting to see them together (10 S. Broad St., 215-523-8221). These are three instances where the host chef is strong enough to handle the visitor, and will not get lost in the shuffle.

On Sun., March 14, Art Smith of Back to the Table: The Reunion of Food and Family, appearing at Bluezette, sounds perfect for a lazy Sunday evening (246 Market St., 215-592-0599).

Mon., March 15, features Colman Andrews at Vesuvio Ristorante. I've seen him work, but never at Vesuvio -- could be a good match (736 S. Eighth St., 215-922-8380). I love to listen to Greg Moore talk about wine, which he will do at Django. His book, The Wine Chronicles is a must-read for wine aficionados, and it's a good way to get a reservation at Django (526 S. Fourth St., 215-922-7151).

Tue., March 16, looks fairly quiet, except for Sam & Sam Clark of Moro in London. They'll be doing their thing in Tangerine's exotic confines (232 Market St., 215-627-5116). Alison at Blue Bell will host Andrew Schloss, well-known around these parts, for his book Almost From Scratch, as well as many others. Could be elementary or it could be fun (721 Skippack Pike, Blue Bell, 215-641-2660).

Wed., March 17, presents two interesting possibilities: Sam Gugino (Cooking to Beat the Clock) at Flying Fish in Chestnut Hill, (8142 Germantown Ave., 215-242-1771), and, in total contrast, Georges Perrier will re-create some of Le Bec-Fin's recipes at Pif in Bella Vista (1009 S Eighth St., 215-625-2923). Gugino, whose recipes from the Wine Spectator I've used with success, has an economical approach, and Perrier shows great sportsmanship in forsaking his wonderful kitchen for the less state-of-the-art digs at Pif.

Thu., March 18, shows only one terrific possibility to me: Gordon Hamersley, whose recipes from his legendary Boston bistro will present no problem for the capabilities of Fork (306 Market St., 215-625-9425). But, having tasted Francois Payard's fabulous pastries at his New York restaurant, I might be tempted to pig out again when he works at Brasserie Perrier with Chris Scarduzio, who has some pretty good ideas of his own (1619 Walnut St., 215-568-3000).

Fri., March 19, features three cooks who are unknown to me, but the the events sound encouraging. Michel Nischan (Taste Pure and Simple) at Chez Colette in the Sofitel (120 S. 17th St., 215-569-8300) and Ming Tsai (Simply Ming: Easy Techniques for East-Meets-West Meals) at Susanna Foo (1512 Walnut St., 215-545-2666). Cadence in the Kimmel Center features Anya Von Bremzen, working from her clearly international book The Greatest Dishes! Around the World in 80 Recipes (Cadence, 300 S. Broad St., 215-670-2388).

On Sat., March 20, it's got to be lunch at Lacroix in the Rittenhouse with the formidable Jeremiah Tower alongside Lacroix (210 W. Rittenhouse Square, 215-790-2533).

Sun., March 21: I'm a fan of Paula Wolfert, whose Slow Mediterranean Kitchen is a terrific book, and I'm sure she will work well at the London Grill (2301 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-4545), but since I tasted Dominique Macquet's cooking last year, I've been longing for more. He, of the eponymous restaurant in New Orleans, joins up with another great chef, Al Paris, at Zanzibar Blue, and I'll just about make it (Zanzibar Blue, 200 S. Broad St., 215-732-4500).

Let's see if any of my dire predictions come true. I've said in the past that the idea of The Book and the Cook was getting tired, overblown with hype and characterized by visiting chefs regarding some of their hosts with disdain. Last year, I did notice a much more democratic feeling, and more respect for the chefs of Philadelphia. I hope it continues into a groundswell for our underrated city. Bon appetit!

For more information, check out www.thebookandthecook.com.