April 1- 7, 2004

food

Stage Invasion

banana split: the Pontiac Grille's banana burrito, with kiwi salsa, represents the fancier end of the bar's menu.

Fancy salsas displace fanboys at the Pontiac Grille.

by Elisa Ludwig

Way back in the 1990s, you went to the Pontiac Grille to see rock shows or shoot pool, not to eat rib eye. In those halcyon days -- fond memories of Neutral Milk Hotel’s guitarist dropping his pants come to mind -- the only available calories for consumption were liquid, and they were usually alcoholic. Now, though, the South Street bar is making a bid for serious restaurant status: All pants must stay on.

It’s a little bit shocking, actually, this transformation, as though the Pontiac was given some kind of Color Me Beautiful consult. Downstairs is now up: The framed posters of the many great bands that have graced the Pontiac’s stage can be found on the second floor, along with said stage. Where the scrappy booths used to be are modern tables and chairs. The street-side wall, once dark to the non-cover-paying world outside, is now plate glass, open during appropriately warm weather.

Though some will certainly miss the old stage, which has been replaced by a large video screen, the Pontiac is now a pleasant place to sit and drink, nibble some fries and watch a movie. The bar itself is more or less the same, but instead of sweaty music fans there are just a few patrons politely sipping beer. The occasional old-school punk rocker remains, demonstrating loyalty amid the drastic change. One can only hope that the Pontiac does not start circulating a martini menu.

The dinner menu is by turns predictable and surprising. The "starters" category includes the typical bar fare like mozzarella sticks and Buffalo wings, and more remarkably, a $14.50 cheese platter. "Irish nachos" -- homemade potato chips covered with melted cheese, bacon shards and chopped scallions --sounded slightly unusual, if only because it took the potato-skins formula to a different end. Unfortunately, the cheese was desiccated and brittle, the bacon rubbery. Salads were a safer choice. The house salad --spring mix and spinach tossed with mushrooms, red onion, olives and pepperoncini -- had a nice mustard vinaigrette. Another decent salad featured grilled portobella mushrooms, chopped walnuts and a single crostini topped with an enormous mound of goat cheese.

The Pontiac’s entrees, mostly featuring meat and fish, look simple enough, but for one surprising item, the roasted kosher chicken. While we did not sample it, we were pleased to uncover the Pontiac’s spirit of dietary inclusiveness. The dishes we did order were presented in the kind of geometric, Asian-influenced earthenware that makes all food look immediately appetizing. However, both of our forays into fine dining were disappointing. A grilled pork chop was bland and on the dry side, but not as dry as the grilled tuna steak, which could not be saved or even slightly moistened by its topping of pale mango salsa. Even less appealing were the side dishes. Both entrees came with instant mashed potatoes and limp green beans sauteed in butter. This might have been par for the course elsewhere, but the fancy plates and double-digit prices set us up to expect greatness, or at least goodness.

When it came to the typical bar fare, the kitchen was much more consistent. The burger, which is served with fries and a green salad, has a choice of toppings named for various cars. I tried the Tempest, with guacamole and tomato, and it was pretty tasty. The meat was flavorful and the guacamole appeared to be homemade, which cast even more shame on those Hungry Man-ish potatoes. The grilled veggie hoagie, stuffed with breaded eggplant, roasted red peppers, sharp provolone and "herbed" olive oil, was also reasonably good, and both sandwiches were served on delicious, crusty bread.

For dessert, we tried a very respectable carrot cake, and then, moving into more radical territory, the banana burrito. Here the banana and vanilla ice cream were wrapped in a crisp, deep-fried shell that had the crisping, flaking texture of churros. The plate came zigzagged with chocolate syrup, a dairy topping that tasted suspiciously like Cool Whip and with a small mound of chopped kiwi salsa. The latter was an interesting idea, but the fruit was bitter and unripe. This was a situation in which a simpler presentation might have better suited the food.

Maybe it is a sign of our fancier times that people prefer fruit salsas to Pabst Blue Ribbon, previously recorded entertainment to live rock music. And it’s understandable that a place like the Pontiac will want try to stay abreast of the latest sauce-drizzling trends. Still, at the moment, the transition is still very much in progress, and the ghosts of rock shows past still linger despite the new decor. Until the food earns its garnish, $15 for an entree is a steep price to pay. But for $10, a burger and a beer at the Pontiac may be just the thing.

Pontiac Grille

304 South St. 215-925-4053

Appetizers: $4.50-$14.50; Entrees: $7.50-$17.50

Hours: dining, 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m.

Not wheelchair accessible. Smoking permitted. Reservations not recommended. All major credit cards accepted.