April 29-May 5, 2004

food

Striped Bass

Recipe by Alfred Portale and Striped Bass

• 1 cup extra virgin olive oil (more if needed)

• 1 pound small potatoes, preferably Ruby Crescents, Yukon Gold, or Yellow Finn, washed and cut in 1/8-inch-thick rounds

• 2 medium onions, quartered lengthwise, then cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices

• 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary, chopped

• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped

• Coarse salt and freshly ground white pepper

• 4 (7-ounce) striped bass fillets, skin on

• 20 cloves garlic, roasted

• 1 sprig rosemary

• 3/4 cup dry white wine

• 2 cups clam broth (more if needed)

• 2 ripe medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded and cut into 1/4-inch dice

• 16 black Mediterranean olives, such as nicoise or kalamata, pitted and coarsely chopped (about 1/3 cup)

• 2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Put half a cup of oil in a 12-inch nonstick saute pan over medium-low heat. Add the potatoes and cook without coloring for about 10 minutes, stirring often to separate slices that cling together, until the potatoes begin to soften. Add the onions, chopped rosemary and thyme, and season with salt and pepper. Cook, covered, about 5 minutes until the onions soften. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

To prepare the striped bass, preheat the over to 400 degrees. Add remaining oil to an ovenproof 12-inch nonstick saute pan. Arrange the potato-onion mixture in four thick mounds in the saute pan, and scatter around the garlic, and one sprig of rosemary. Season the bass with salt and pepper. Place one fillet on top of each mound. Heat the skillet over medium heat until the oil begins to give off crackling sounds. Add the wine, bring to a boil and cook about 2 minutes, until the wine is reduced by half. Pour in the clam broth. Bring to a boil, cover and place in the oven. Braise for 7 to 8 minutes, until the fish is barely opaque in the center.

Using a slotted spatula, transfer the potato and fish mounds to the center of four warmed dinner plates or a large platter. Return the pan to the stove. Bring the cooking liquid to a boil over high heat. Cook the sauce for 1 to 2 minutes, until slightly thickened. (This re-boiling distributes the potato starch, a natural thickener, through the sauce.) Add the tomatoes, olives and parsley and cook for 15 seconds. Taste for balance, adding some olive oil, clam broth or salt and pepper if needed. Spoon half the sauce over the fish and pour the rest into a warmed sauceboat. Serve immediately. Serves 4.

Tip from the chef:

Thinking ahead: The potatoes, garlic and onions may be prepared 8 hours in advance, covered and refrigerated. When slicing the potatoes, a mandoline-type slicer works best.