100 and Still 'Groing

by A.D. Amorosi

While the Italian Market prepares for Bella Vista Festa, Augustine "Gus" Isgro is baking -- just like he has since his grandfather, Sicilian-born Mario Isgro, handed him a rolling pin at age 5. It’s a part of him he’ll soon celebrate during Isgro Pasticceria’s 100th birthday party, held at the same Christian Street location where Mario ended up upon arrival in America. "Christian at Delaware was a point of embarkation from Italy," said Gus, the third-generation owner and head baker. "My grandfather first stayed at building 1005, which is still in my family, then opened the store at 1009. It was a busy street; lotsa businesses, plenty of sunlight, the two-way traffic of horse-drawn carriages and horse-drawn trolleys."

Back in the day, the Isgros used those vehicles to deliver his wedding cakes and cannolis -- Isgro's most famed item, costing a nickel each in 1904 -- to your family as well as celebs like Pavarotti, Sinatra and Jerry Blavat, the emcee of Isgro's unveiling of "Philly's Largest Cannoli" this weekend. (Of this, Gus will say nothing. "We will divulge the length, width, height and weight at that time.")

Little has changed for Isgro's, apart from the availability of better refrigeration and the diversity in suppliers -- yes, they used to get flour from the flour man, shortening from the shortening man. Now, suppliers with a full array of ingredients let Isgro offer the most delicate of Italian cakes like cassada. But no matter what changes, Isgro's will never compromise. "We always strive to keep our tradition of quality." With that tradition comes the time-honored gift of the cannoli. Isgro's signature product is sacred, different than anyone else's and secret. "The most important thing I learned from my grandfather is the cannoli recipe -- I've never diverged from his original recipe." One surprise he reveals: In the inside of the shell (not the filling) there is a combination of certain homemade wines. The shells also use a combination of flours, a formula Mario Isgro developed to make them a very delicate, very specific crispness. "We've remained the truest Italian bakery because of our commitment to the specifics," says Gus, who not only honors traditions Mario started, but those of each baker within the Isgro clan, including Gus's mom, Mary, and his sons, A.J. and Michael. "It comes back to you. I'm committed to making "it' good, if not better, every time. It's critical we're consistent. It's important to me that what people have come to expect and crave in an Isgro pastry meets their expectations. I care that we achieve that each and every time."

Isgro Pastries’ 100th Anniversary Birthday Bash, Sun., May 16, 12:30-4:30 p.m.,1009 Christian St., 215-923-3092 , www.bestcannoli.com.

-- Respond to this article in our Forums -- click to jump there