May 20-26, 2004

food

No Work and All Play

field Grazing: Diners at Harry the K's Broadcast Bar and Grill catch every play while ordering burgers, crab cakes and Schmitters. Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Business people discover snack-induced pleasure at the new ballpark.

by Brian Hickey

His name was Jeff Murphy, but since we were so close, I took to calling him "Murph."

As in, "Hey Murph, not good enough to get in the game?" Or, "Yo Murph, you better start warming them pitchers up. Looks like the Phils are starting to knock you guys around."

Now, it's not that I'd ever actually met Murph before this idyllic Thursday afternoon, but having already been at Citizens Bank Park for 10 minutes, there was a bond; Murph was the St. Louis Cardinals' bullpen catcher and the City Paper Lunch Bunch crew had set up shop in the outfield, along Ashburn Alley where, if you position yourself just right, you're five -- maybe six -- arms' reaches from opposing players. This being Philadelphia, that can be a problem -- which is why I hope Murph understands there was no ill will.

But enough about Murph and me. No, what's important here is the fact that the monthly Phillies Businessperson's Special may be the absolute pinnacle of Philadelphia sporting experiences when, like last Thursday, the temperature straddles that spring/summer line. The midweek afternoon games are nothing new; they had them over at the Vet too. But they've really risen to an all-time high at the new stadium, with the wide array of food, beverage and ambience available at the new ballpark, especially for a foursome armed with a company card and empty lunchtime stomachs.

Since I had to spend the morning at Flyers practice, Editor in Chief Howard Altman, art director Jessica Weber and staff photographer Michael T. Regan got to the park earlier and staked out what will henceforth be considered "Murphville." The Cards had dropped five runs on the Phils in the top of the first, to which the Phils responded with three in the bottom half, thanks primarily to home runs from Jim Thome and Pat Burrell.

Shortly thereafter, I got off the subway -- man, it really is a longer walk now -- and strolled into the stadium. The first stop, of course, was an Aramark concession stand where one large Budweiser and a Polish hot dog set me back $10.25. Price be damned, there's no other meal one should seek upon getting to a baseball game. I repeat, no other meal.

So what did Altman, Regan and Weber have when I found them in Murphville? Understand first that Ashburn Alley -- a run of restaurants, games and brew dispensers in the outfield -- is somewhat touristy. (There's a Geno's and Tony Luke's.) But since it adds to a whole new Phillies game ambience, no complaints.

Regan and Altman hit Bull's BBQ, former Phillies' slugger Greg Luzinski's stand. Regan walked away with a $7.25 BBQ Pork Sandwich which he found "tender, flavorful and not too soggy." Altman grabbed the rib platter for $8. The slaw and beans were exceptional, he says, and the ribs "were as good as any rib joint in the city." Weber, who spurns red meat at every turn, went with a $3 plain slice from Peace A Pizza and a caesar salad. The slice, she says, wasn't that bad but typical of "pizza you'd get somewhere other than a pizza parlor." The $6.50 salad, which came with a packet of Kraft Creamy Caesar dressing, passed muster with crisp, fresh lettuce. (Altman also dropped $3.50 on the slice of-the-day which, that day, was bacon cheeseburger. As wrong as it looked, he says, it was pretty good.)

But more importantly on a nearly sweltering afternoon was the beverage selection. For me, the Phillies equal cheap beer sweating through plastic cups -- but alas, no more. No, along Ashburn Alley, it's all about the Brewerytown booze-ateria, and here's why: Corona. Victory HopDevil. Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Mike's Hard Lemonade. Aspen Edge. Ballantine Ale XXX. All $5.75 a bottle. (Throw in an extra quarter for Flying Fish Extra Pale Ale.)

Then it was off to Harry the K's Broadcast Bar and Grill, a restaurant strategically placed in left-center field so diners can continue watching the game from their tables -- for no more than an hour, according to the rules. (Brilliant, we say, just brilliant.) Regan went with the $9.50 half-pound burger with fried onions, lettuce, tomato and potato chips with honey mustard. "Watching Jim Thome at the plate made up for the rather bland burger," he says. "The [$9] wings left a lot to be desired as well a bit too hard and overdone."

Weber, a Baltimorian, went with the crab cakes which she proudly declared "actually really good!" And I was all about the Schmitter -- an ingenious concoction from McNally's Tavern in Chestnut Hill that includes steak, salami, onions, tomatoes and a funky special sauce that added just enough tang.

Pleased as a pig at the slop trough, not even the $98.82 could bring me down. Hell, not even a 7-4 Phillies loss could do that, after the $34 round of five -- or was it six? -- Mind Erasers on our own dime at a jam-packed McFadden's Restaurant and Saloon, a bar that welcomes guests with tickets or without. All of which means, of course, that Murphville should expect us back for the June 17 Businessperson's Special.

Citizens Bank Park

One Citizens Bank Way 215-463-1000 Ashburn Alley concessions open game days one hour before gate opening. Wheelchair accessible. Smoking is permitted in designated areas.

McFadden's at Citizens Bank Park

215-952-0300 Open 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. daily Wheelchair accessible. Smoking is permitted in designated areas. Reservations accepted except on game days. All major credit cards except Discover.