Brewing Up a Storm

by A.D. Amorosi

"A bar that celebrates fermentation" -- that's how Jon Myerow's Tria was described upon opening three weeks ago. While the idea of leavening and souring doesn't immediately spring to mind when seeking gastronomic experiences, Myerow's savvy leaning toward the purely artisanal should, with Tria's menu of handmade wines, beers and cheeses as delightfully unpretentious as its setting. A low-lit, candle-strewn environment of tall stools, curved bars, squat banquettes and cafe tables gives Tria a walnut-toned, loungelike feel, a truly communal and relaxing one without the sass of shagadelia. "So many places have a cooler-than-thou atmosphere -- cookie-cutter pickup bars with loud music," Myerow says.

Tria's chilled vibe extends itself to how one should order -- in a hunt-and-peck groove that allows one to order, in sushilike fashion, as you go. "People seem to like just hanging for a couple hours and trying different items," says Myerow of a menu of food, wines and beers (and no other liquors!) with written descriptions like "profound, "racy" or "stoic."

"We were afraid at first -- not selling martinis, moving exotic items, selling the unusual pairings of beer and cheese," he remembers, considering his favorite combinations such as Camembert with blood orange marmalade or a fruity British Montgomery cheddar with a Tröegs Nut Brown Ale from Harrisburg. "That beer embraces the cheese. Tell that at first to customers and they think I'm nuts. But we've had lots of return customers in such a short time."

That's the reason Myerow and Bogdanow Partners Architects (who designed NYC's Union Square Cafe, Rubicon) made Tria so stark and serene: to allow fromager/chef Chris Kujawa's choices in handcrafted food and drink, so common and ancient, to stand out. As a rebellion against "factory-made garbage" Tria's dedication to the artisanal is as wise a choice as organic or whole foods. Buying its wares at Murray's Cheese Shop in Manhattan means they're able to discover treats like Robiola Staggionata, an Italian washed-rind rarity, or the stinky French Tomme Du Berger Affine; cheeses made by "farmers, not scientists." Like in its cheeses, yeasty breasts and tender meats, Tria's beers and wines are also handmade goods produced in smaller quantities; like Heavyweight Brewery out of Ocean Township, N.J. "These are strong beers with a lot of character. Not everything here is made by the little guy in a spare bedroom with his own recipes. But they taste like it."

Tria, 123 S. 18th St., 215-972-8742.

-- Respond to this article in our Forums -- click to jump there