July 8-14, 2004

food

French Twist

by Tami Fertig

The fireworks are over. You've digested your beer, hot dogs and other unhealthy barbecued treats in the name of patriotism, and, true to the laws of inertia, you want more. Fortunately, your stomach need not wait long. Another commemoration of revolution follows up our own on July 14: Bastille Day, anniversary of the day French peasants stuck it to the monarchy by storming a state prison. So show some solidarity and dine your little hearts out on French cuisine. (Recent fallings-out with our transatlantic friends aside, chocolate éclairs are still amazing.)

Festivities begin on July 10, when Eastern State Penitentiary (noon-9 p.m., free, 22nd St. and Fairmount Ave., 215-236-3300) and neighborhood restaurants host their ninth annual Bastille Day celebration. The street party kicks off at noon with live music and plenty of French sandwiches, sausages, pastries and champagne. At 5:30 p.m., join thousands of other reenactment-lovers for the storming of the prison, Marie Antoinette's possible beheading and costume contests galore — check www.easternstate.org for categories. Catch a flying Twinkie, then settle down at London Grill (2301 Fairmount Ave., 215-978-4545) for Gallic gastronomy including quiche Lorraine, crepes with fruit and charcuterie. Surrounding restaurants will serve dinner specials and French beer, so make sure to scope out the area before heading home.

To keep eating the good stuff on July 11, catch a ride to the Main Line, where Georges Perrier's Le Mas (noon-2 a.m., 503 W. Lancaster Ave., Wayne, 610-964-2588) celebrates Bastille Day starting at noon with petanque (a game like bocce) on the front lawn. That will be followed by raffles, French wine tasting and dinner from the regular menu — which includes a gruyûre-and-Dijon-mustard cheesesteak.

On July 14, take the trolley to West Philly for White Dog Cafe's 22nd annual Bastille Day Block Party(8 p.m.-2 a.m., $38, $5 after 10 p.m. for dancing only, 3420 Sansom St., 215-386-9224), starting off with a four-course dinner of salad with tapenade and chûvre, Chardonnay-poached salmon, homemade French bread and a chocolate-hazelnut mousse crepe. Stick around for the storming of the cardboard Bastille and subsequent outdoor dance party. Or head to the waterfront, where Alliance Francaise's celebration (7-10 p.m., $75, Independence Seaport Museum, 211 S. Columbus Blvd., 215-735-5283) features cancan dancers, a silent auction, live orchestra, raffles and a buffet of French pâtés, cheeses, roasted pig, salmon and little tarts and pastries. Watch the sunset, dance under the stars and breathe in the Delaware River.

Honorable mentions: Bistro St. Tropez (2400 Market St., 215-569-9269) and Beau Monde (Sixth and Bainbridge sts., 215-592-0656) will each have accordionists on-site, as well as festive and traditional French fare, for the evening of July 14.