July 15-21, 2004

food

Smooth Transition

IN THE PINK: Beef tartare, served on brioche with rosemary mustard, truffle vinaigrette and tarragon emulsion. Photo By: Tim Brace

A streamlined, seasonal menu still entices Jake's regulars.

by Maxine Keyser

In a world where governments topple, and friends are friends one day and enemies the next, we tend to cling to familiar, reliable icons in our lives. So, when it comes to restaurants, I know I can always count on Jake's in Manayunk for a stellar, recognizable meal. Manayunk no longer has the luster that it once possessed, and restaurants have come and gone, but Jake's remains after 16 years, and due to a recent renovation, it not only looks better than ever, but I would swear that the food tastes better than ever as well.

The walls, punctuated by handsome metal sconces, are the color of a freshly poached egg yolk, and the banquettes are upholstered in russet brocade. The sometimes surly, inefficient waiters of the past have been replaced by a friendlier bunch, and the menu once billed as staunchly "American" has more attractive, eclectic touches.

From the ever-superior wine list, we choose glasses of an off-dry Riesling, and set out to try some of Bruce Cooper's new offerings. Since he opened the now-defunct Novelty in Old City a few years ago, he has been experimenting with Asian spices, so that the always popular, renowned crab cake, still plump as a golf ball but much sweeter and juicier, comes with a Thai green chili and white balsamic reduction. These spark the avocado, mashed with tomato, lime, cilantro and red peppers, that lies beneath. I didn't really need the crumbled prosciutto as another garnish, as it seemed forced, but it doesn't stop the dish from succeeding in a world where everyone seems to be vying to make the best crab cake.

Another dish approaching the pantheon set by most places is the seared foie gras, now touched with truffle marscapone, a tart and delicious orange vanilla gastrique, and a slab of Grand Marnier French toast to soak up the unctuous juices. These dishes have become staples on most menus, as has the ubiquitous Caesar salad — here enriched by a crostini of homemade foccacia and fried capers, or the fried calamari, now sheathed in cornmeal and aided by yellow tomatoes and cannellini beans. I wouldn't try beef tartare at too many places, but here I am quite sure I'm in good hands, and since the raw, rosy beef comes with a truffled vinaigrette and toasted brioche, I like the meaty flavor even better. Under things raw, there's also a tuna carpaccio, accompanied by a napoleon of salmon tartare layered with European cucumber slices and daikon radish, and dashed with a wasabi lemongrass vinaigrette, that puts all the combinations of crunch and soft, mellow and hot, at play. And if you want a spring roll, it may come with duck confit within, and dipping sauces that range from mustard to blackberry.

I note that, among the entrees, the cedar-planked salmon is gone, at least for now, but I never went for that as much as the grilled calves' liver, served rare as requested (sometimes I think I number Dracula among my ancestors) and sweetened by a dandy hash of apples, potato and bacon. You can have the wonderful crab cake for an entree as well, but with fried yams and French beans, it's a whopper of a platter. Tournedos of veal are always good, but the pairing with lobster mashed potatoes by the man who invented them takes this dish right over the top. A drizzle of chived butter and a mushroom demi-glace only gild the already outrageously rich lily. Delicate sauteed halibut, when in season, is always good, especially with vegetables of the season, like asparagus, pea sprouts and baby fennel. Pan roasted quail glazed with port, a spring choice on the ever-changing seasonal menu, is a good bet, as is the orange-ginger glazed duck breast — very Asian with a shiitake mushroom stuffed scallion crepe alongside. The only thing that fails for me is the wasabi-crusted tuna wrapped in a spring roll. It never comes out quite rare enough for me, and the garlic chili glaze adds nothing to the existing flavors of ginger (in a potato cake) and wasabi. You can always get a good filet of beef if some of the dishes seem too esoteric, but don't forget the roasted sea scallops with a risotto of baby artichokes, and a lemony honey oil to wash over it and add a little astringency to the sweet scallops.

At lunch, chef de cuisine Christopher Jackson can come up with a three-course prix fixe menu for $19.95, adding $7 for two half-glasses of wine. There's also a great burger on toasted brioche with Gruyére cheese, or a sandwich of that famous crabcake with remoulade sauce. But about dessert …

Pastry chef Debbie Tonsey has made me forget the Cookie Taco in favor of a carrot cake sandwich — with vanilla cheese cake filling, frozen cinnamon souffle glace and caramelized pineapple compote, it's absolutely indecent. The profiteroles sport caramel pecan ice cream within and a warm chocolate fudge sauce. There's coconut cream pie with lemon sauce — oh, I could go on and on, but I'm stopped in my tracks by homemade chocolate-covered pretzel ice cream, too good to ignore. I would usually opt for the well-selected cheese plate (three, five or seven cheeses to choose from), but these sweets are a guilty pleasure.

So, a meal at Jake's, with an interesting streamlined menu, and a well thought-out though somewhat pricey wine list, ends with a good cup of La Colombe coffee. I observe that throughout lunch and dinner, there are always regulars dropping in at the tiny front bar, for assignations or just a drink. Maybe it's because they, like so many others, feel that Jake's is a home away from home (a home with a good chef) these many years, and hope that it stays that way.

Jake's 4365 Main St., Manayunk 215-483-0444
Lunch: Mon.-Sat., 11:30 a.m.-2:15 p.m.
Dinner: Mon.-Thu., 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Fri. and Sat., 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 5-9 p.m.
Brunch: Sun., 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Appetizers: $8-$17; Entrees: $23.50-$31.50
Not wheelchair accessible.
Smoking permitted at the bar only.
Reservations suggested.
All major credit cards except Discover.