December 2- 8, 2004

food

Our Grocery Greatness

by Carolyn Wyman

Everyone knows about Philadelphia's pivotal role in the founding of our nation. More hidden is our city's impact on national eating habits. I am not talking about McDonald's cheesesteaks, the standard-setting Le Bec-Fin or even the Tastykakes sold regionally but rather the many Philly émigré foods found on grocery shelves from Maine to California.

In fact, after researching the history of famous supermarket foods for my new book, Better Than Homemade, (Quirk Books, $14.95), I believe that the freedom proclaimed by the Liberty Bell should also include and acknowledge the independence from food spoilage and kitchen drudgery offered to us by the following sampling of nationally renowned, locally invented packaged foods.

Slim Jim: For years, the wrapping for this macho meat snack featured an elegant guy in top hat and tails. And Slim Jim was elegant compared to the pigs' feet that Adolph Levis sold in Philly bars during the 1940s before creating Slim Jim.

Mrs. Paul's Frozen Fish: Another Philly bar invention. After regularly overestimating the number of deviled crabs he'd sell in any given evening, Fishtown bar chef Ed Piszek began freezing the leftovers and selling them to local supermarkets.

Hires Root Beer: Philadelphia pharmacist (and apparent workaholic) Charles Hires was inspired to invent root beer after being served a root bark tea on his honeymoon.

Keebler Cookies and Crackers: Yes, Ernie's hollow tree was originally located at 12th and Christian streets.

Hershey's Chocolate: Milton Hershey opened his first candy business at 935 Spring Garden St. in 1876. He was hoping to get rich on Centennial crowds—and when he didn't, he had a nervous breakdown.

Breyers Ice Cream: America's best-selling ice cream brand started as a street-cart business in Kensington and Frankford. The leaf logo is from the locally growing briar bush—a pun on the Breyer family name.

Why the Philadelphia Cream Cheese omission? Because it's a late 1800s upstate New York invention. Its manufacturer only adopted the Philadelphia brand name to trade on the city's reputation for fine foods—out of respect for some of the names mentioned above.

Carolyn Wyman is City Paper's assistant copy editor. Free slide lecture and book signing, Mon., Dec. 6, 7 p.m., Free Library, Central Branch, Room 108, 1901 Vine St., 215-567-4341. Book signing, Wed., Dec. 8, 10 a.m. to noon, Barnes & Noble, 1805 Walnut St., 215-665-0716.