December 16-22, 2004

food

Prime Eats

cutting edge: Barclay Prime has the knives out for its customers—a Global, a Furi, a Chroma Porsche or a Laguiole (pictured here with the Kobe steak). Photo By: Michael T. Regan

Stephen Starr steaks the heart of Rittenhouse Square.

by Maxine Keyser

Once more, Stephen Starr has shown his uncanny ability to give us what we want before we even know that we want it. Who else could know that another steak house could elicit such excitement or force us to rethink our ideas about steak houses in the first place?

Barclay Prime, set beautifully in the Barclay apartment house, defeats our preconceived notions. The old cocktail lounge still has its black and white marble floor, but it is now dotted with great black chairs and zebra rugs (shades of the old El Morocco). It begs one to stop and linger over a drink — and linger you will, for the drinks are as large as their price tags. Noted designer India Mahdavi has coaxed a chic, contemporary feel from the original coffered ceiling and crystal chandeliers. The walnut-paneled walls are punctuated by bookshelves that hold the trendiest collection you've ever seen. As always in a Starr restaurant, we enjoy the attention of the impeccably turned-out serving staff, run by General Manager Jonathan Friedman, and listen to our waiter editorialize while reciting explanations of the entire menu. His suggestions are right on target, so pay attention.

While attacking the made-to-order Metropolitan rolls (with butter; no olive oil here), the 300-bottle wine list may give you pause. It is naturally heavy on the California reds, and the prices well, you can't find anything below $40, and there is a Chateau Angelus for $664. We settle on the dependable winery Villa Mt. Eden, and their "Tall Trees" cabernet does nicely.

Now the food — from the raw bar, the oysters du jour are Emerald Cove from British Columbia, plump and creamy, served with a mignonette. A wedge of iceberg lettuce is standard, too, but this one, with cream and blue goat-cheese dressing, is raised from humility. An appetizer called a Kobe slider features two little Kobe beef burgers on brioche rolls — one with caramelized onions, another with Gruyére cheese. They are justifiably proud of the oysters Rockefeller and the lobster bisque, both a notch above the usual preparation.

Next comes an unnecessary but delicious entremets of raspberry sorbet, tarted up with pomegranate juice, and then the presentation of the knives! Because we have all ordered steak, we are offered our choice of instrument, from a vicious-looking Global steak knife from Japan, a Furi from Australia, a Type 301 Chroma Porsche from Germany or the popular Laguiole from France. It's a bit of an affectation, but it adds to the fun of the meal. Then the sommelier decants our wine (another nice touch), and we are down to business.

I have eschewed the butter-poached lobster, which to me seems like the Colosseum by moonlight — too much to bear. I try instead a 10-ounce Kobe hanger steak, whose rich, rare, almost livery flesh is only edible in small, lovely bites. My companions go for the special, a Gachot & Gachot 20-ounce ribeye, dry-aged for 21 days and more than enough for two. (Our wonderful waiter confides that it is the same steak they serve at Brooklyn's Peter Luger steak house.) It is a marbled miracle, oozing juice, buttery and intensely meaty. The sides are extra, of course, but we must have shaved potatoes and onions, which are not crusty enough, and creamed spinach, light and redolent of nutmeg, that we pronounce the best we have ever tasted. This has certainly been a meal of superlatives.

In Vongerichten style, they serve three sauces with the steaks: a slightly sweet house sauce, Worcestershire and mustard. For a price, you can also get Bearnaise, red wine, rosemary balsamic and a variety of others, but believe me, these steaks need no embellishment.

The only slightly confusing menu area is "Complements," listing lobster, crab cake, shrimp scampi, etc. The waiter explains that these are only small servings that people might choose to customize their meal.

No, we do not order, nor do we wish for, the vaunted $100 Kobe cheesesteak (it comes with a split of Veuve Cliquot these days), but there are many around us who are having just that. It contains, I'm told, not just the beef but lobster or foie gras, occasional truffles and a melting of Taleggio cheese. It certainly looks impressive, but a chef the caliber of Todd Mark Miller — who's worked with Jean-Georges Vongerichten, Rocco DiSpirito, Nobu Matsuhisa and the like in kitchens from Salt Lake City to the Maldives — does not need gimmicks. He has the knack of using only the finest ingredients and letting their natural flavor come through with very little decoration.

Dessert is an afterthought after such a meal, but in true steak-house style the desserts are huge and caloric. We sample a very crispy, crunchy tart of coconut phyllo filled with banana cream and caramelized bananas accompanied by banana-caramel ice cream that is the best of all. The three piles of marshmallow-gilded s'mores are busy with graham crackers, flourless chocolate torte and peanut butter ice cream, but we like the ice cream by itself. Warm cheesecake truffles are four spheres of cheesecake, fried somehow and sauced with either chocolate or fruit sauces. They are tasty, but I can't do them justice, nor can I appreciate the cookies that accompany our coffee (in delicate, balanced cups).

Three of Stephen Starr's new restaurants — this, Striped Bass and Washington Square — are not as theatrically driven as his earlier attempts. He seems to be opting for straight glamour and great food served by an impeccable staff, and that doesn't need fiber optics. If this is truly the direction he's taking in Starr City, it's fine with me.

Barclay Prime 237 S. 18th St. 215-732-7560

• Lunch: Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Dinner: Sun.-Thu., 5-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat., 5-11 p.m.
• Appetizers: $9-$15 Entrées: $25-$55 Cheesesteak: $100
• Reservations suggested. Wheelchair accessible. Credit cards accepted. Smoking permitted in lounge area only.