The atmosphere at the Royal Tavern has always allowed for quality, but not pretension. Which is why their newest menu item, the Kobe beef corn dog, is a little hard to wrap one's mind around. Is it campy? Gourmet? Or just obscene?

Chef Eric Kemenes put the strange and sensual item (which comes with potato salad, pickle relish, Russian dressing and honey mustard, $8, or two for $13) on the Royal's menu in June. He says without hesitation, "Everybody loves it. There's something about hot dogs or corn dogs in the proper context that makes people go [his voice drops an octave], 'Oh, yeah.'"

But this isn't just an ordinary street-corner dog. It's Kobe beef, which, legend has it, comes from cattle raised on a Zen-like golf course, given baths in sake and beer, and completes an Elizabeth Kubler Ross death and dying seminar before it becomes your dinner. Which of course is just that: a legend.

Kobe beef originated in Tajima, Japan, now named Hyogo Prefecture. (Kobe is the capital.) Wagu cattle were imported and bred with American cattle, which is how we get American Kobe beef. It's like calling sparkling wine champagne when it isn't from the region. Finding definitive facts on how Kobe beef is farmed, or how many cattle there are, or why it costs $100 a pound from some meat distributors (the most commonly quoted price) and $420 for four steaks from another is a mystery best left unsolved. For Kemenes, the proof is in the way it tastes.

"One guy probably rubbed one cow one time and the legend began. Kobe beef is bred for the marbling. This is one of the cheapest ways we could do something with Kobe beef." So there you have it: It's higher in fat than other beef, therefore inherently tastier.

The Royal's hot dogs are from Wells meat distributors: 100 percent beef, but not from Japan. Kemenes buys stone-ground cornmeal from a farm in Lancaster and makes the buttermilk batter in-house. All the sauces are homemade, too, from the grainy but silky honey mustard to the Russian dressing and yummy relish. Then there's "my famous potato salad," says Kemenes modestly, which is vinegary (no mayo), with loads of fresh herbs. It's savory and crisp — a perfect complement to the juicy, rich corn dog.

And as for pairing it with drinks? "I'd recommend a bottle of PBR. That's the most fitting. Then for $11 you have yourself a full meal."

Royal Tavern 937 E. Passyunk Ave., 215-389-6694
Kobe Beef corn dog, with potato salad, relish, Russian dressing, and honey mustard. One for $8, two for $13.