May 11-17, 2006
Arts : Artspicks
Little White Dress
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"She was tiny!" a stranger at my side breathed at the very moment I mentally framed exactly the same words. Grace Kelly's wedding dress, on view for the first time since 1998, suggests an astonishing slenderness. Turning from the dress to photographs of Kelly, groom Prince Rainier III and the rest of the wedding party in Monaco, April 19, 1956, I realized that, though Kelly's reputed 5-foot, 6-inch frame was petite, the actress gained presence from a head proportionately larger than that of the mannequin on which the costume is shown. It has the sleek pinhead of a Balanchine ballerina, while the soon-to-be Serene Highness had a big skull and the large features suitable for an actress who projects emotion on-screen.
Kelly gave her dress to her hometown museum, which now celebrates the 50th anniversary of a fantastical explosion of glamour. (Pictured is Kelly, with her prince, on a visit to the museum in 1956.) It's still hard to believe: An aloof Academy-Award-winner marries the head of Europe's oldest ruling family to become princess of a barely square-mile kingdom devoted to gambling!
Modern June brides seeking fashion inspiration, please note than in 1956, exposed shoulders in church would have been comparable to a Daisy Duke bridal ensemble today. Academy Award-winning MGM couturier Helen Rose covered Princess Grace's arms with 19th-century-style lace, points of which modestly descended over her wrists and the backs of her hands.
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Sadly, time exacts a toll on elegance. The idea of the dress is more thrilling than the sight of it. Wilted, dulled silks seem lifeless in contrast to photographs of Her Serene Highness' big glossy blond head devoutly bowed in prayer.
For the century anniversary, I suggest a life-size photo of Rainier propped up beside his bride. The princess's froufrou contrasted well with his medal-encrusted self-designed Napoleonic-style uniform. Until then, it's the last few days to share a real Philadelphia fairy tale.