TURKISH DELIGHTS: Brother and sister team Fulya and Ilker Ugur opened Divan in the Graduate Hospital area to neighborhood applause. : Michael T. Regan

Not long ago, the notion of a new BYO at 22nd and Carpenter streets was a fantasy scenario for local residents. When Istanbul native Ilker Ugur announced his plans to open the place at a community meeting some months back, the room reportedly burst into applause. Now they've got an ethnic eatery that pays homage to its hometown in a variety of subtle ways, starting with an architectural plan that's a pleasing riff on the classic Philadelphia trinity. The ground-floor dining area, surrounded by wide windows and anchored by a small bar decorated with tile, sits on top of a basement kitchen that sends up orders by dumbwaiter. It's safe to say that ventilation was one of the first orders of business: There's not a trace of smoke or steam to molest diners, and besides, Ugur and his sister live on separate floors above. Considering that their parents came over from Turkey to help get the place off the ground, Divan couldn't be more of a family affair.

Appetizers run the gamut from Turkish favorites like borek and dill-and-mint-spiked yogurt to familiar Philly fare like lightly battered calamari. The cold dishes are the tastiest—especially spread across all that warm bread. Add a glass of imported sour cherry juice or an excellent rendition of ayran, a salted yogurt drink, and you've got a superb start to a summer meal. Although the restaurant is angling for a liquor license, Ugur claims he will continue letting customers bring their own wine. The current $5 corkage fee may rankle BYO purists, but if the price stays the same once Divan stocks its own wine cellar, complaints should turn into adulation.

Main courses lean heavily toward the red end of the meat spectrum. Lamb chops are seared with thyme and oregano to yield fairly thin and very tender medallions hanging off the end of the bone. Kebabs range from lamb cubes to beef patties to chicken, and this is where the value lies. Once again the meat is tender and delicately spiced, and it seems that anything cooked on a skewer yields a generous portion for the price. The mixed grill arrives on a platter that practically overhangs the edges of a two-top. Mediterranean sea bass and dorado come grilled whole, a simple preparation that emphasizes the clean flavors of their flaky white flesh and crispy skin. Side dishes don't get much focus here—the raw onions and orzo-speckled rice function more as palate cleansers than anything else. (Diners seeking more variety should look to the appetizers.)

If the middle of the menu is packed with honest, uncomplicated fare, the dessert course harkens back to the more concentrated flavors of the appetizer plates. Caramelized milk pudding wears a coat of dusted cinnamon and boasts an ideal texture: just firm enough to cut with a fork, but the cool white slabs slip apart on your tongue. Half a sweetened quince is stuffed with shredded apple and pear and topped with a dollop of whipped cream. There's baklava that bursts with pistachios and a few other items to choose from, but chocolate lovers will be forced onto new terrain, just as they are in Turkey.

A dish to look forward to is one commonly found in the Asian half of Istanbul but rarely encountered in Stateside Turkish restaurants. Manti, which can quickly become an addiction for anyone who ventures across the Bosphorus from the heavily touristed European side of town, are lamb- or beef-stuffed dumplings covered in a yogurt sauce and sprinkled with mint and chili flakes. Ugur says he plans to start serving them once the restaurant settles into its groove. They're a long way from ravioli in red gravy, but like a lot on the menu at Divan, they should provide an excellent opportunity to take Philly comfort food in a refreshing new direction.

Divan Turkish Kitchen

Wheelchair accessible. No smoking. Reservations accepted. Visa and MasterCard accepted. BYOB.