June 22-28, 2006
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Nonfiction
Short Reviews
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Angell, who at age 85 looks and carries himself like a man 25 years younger, turns his attention from the ballpark to his own life in his new memoir, Let Me Finish. In this collection of short pieces (they feel more like essays than chapters of a book) Angell revisits his childhood, World War II service and beginnings as a writer. He was born into the profession; his mother, Katharine, was a New Yorker editor while his stepfather, "Andy," was Charlotte's Web author E.B. White.
White's Here Is New York (1949) has been embraced by readers as a longing look back at a bygone New York, and I suspect Let Me Finish will be similarly treasured for its tribute to an equally extinct culture. Here Angell recalls going to an afternoon Boston Symphony recital with a long-departed college classmate:
We had lunch somewhere off Beacon Street and were back in the sunshine in plenty of time before the overture, when Walker said, "Let's run." And away we went, a couple of twenty-year-old Harvard juniors in jackets and ties and narrow summer pants, leaping like deer across the Commonwealth Avenue traffic, hurdling hydrants, dodging in front of dowagers and startled pedestrians, our feet spattering down the red brick Boston sidewalks, our heads straining like Olympic sprinters. Laughter got the better of us and stopped us, wheezing sweaty, with our hands on our knees, a block or so short of Symphony Hall.
Angell has only kind words to say about his parents even after their tumultuous divorce, as well as his own late ex-wife, and his many colleagues at The New Yorker. You almost begin to long for some good old-fashioned score-settling, but no dice. "I've had a life sheltered by privilege and engrossing work, and shot through with good luck," he writes, and by the end of this book his gratitude is shared by the reader.
But for all her precision in chasing memories from more than two decades ago, Bechdel has a lot of uncertainty. She's pretty sure her dad intentionally jumped in front of the truck he'd been busted for corrupting minors and her mother was seeking a divorce but there's no suicide note. In a man whose sense of self was bound in the written word, that omission casts just enough doubt to endow a solitary ending with alternate meanings. But when Bechdel tries to imagine what would have happened if he hadn't gotten in the truck's way, all she can come up with is a feeling that her dad would have contracted AIDS, and maybe passed it on to her mom.
There are a million maybes down that road, and Bechdel dances around them. Her story isn't linear but a Mobius strip. In her retelling, she's a child, a teen, an adult not necessarily in that order. Father and daughter are gripping on their own; add in their sad family, a few beautiful teenage boys and Bechdel's first lovers, and you've got something rich, moving, lovely and fascinating. It's not fun. But it's everything else.
Early press for Heat described it as a biography of Food Channel chef Mario Batali, informed by Buford's days toiling as a kitchen "slave" at Batali's three-star New York restaurant, Babbo. You get the feeling that's all this book was going to be until Buford discovered that a chef of Batali's celebrity is rarely in his kitchen, and that some of the people Batali trained with in Italy are even more interesting. As much as I'd rather read about a Dante-quoting butcher than another one of Batali's drinking sprees, the switch makes Heat's structure and aims as complicated as one of Batali's over-the-top dishes.
There is also the built-in banality of the line chef job Buford has decided to George Plimptonize, resulting in way too many descriptions of the perfect way to cut a carrot or cut a piece of meat. (Could that be why NBC's The Restaurant is now only a memory?)
Heat does contain some of the same ingredients that made KC such an entertaining read anecdotes about the bad behavior of culinary artistes that are the main source of this book's title, for instance. (South Philly has the dubious distinction of producing one of the book's most abusive characters, a supervising chef who throws hot food at the author when he messes up.) Buford's kitchen stint also yields some interesting insider information and insights about the illegal immigrants without which no big-city restaurant could survive, about "kitchen awareness" (the instinct, say, for when something is done, timer be damned), about the difference between amateur and professional chefs (pros "push" the food to the limits of cooking times, seasonings, etc. and so get much more intense flavor although Buford admits he cribbed this idea from old episodes of Molto Mario).
But frankly there are many more such insights in Kitchen Confidential, which is also funnier and better written. Heat will leave fans of both Bourdain and Batali hungry and cold.
In every chapter, the author captures the exactly right and almost always unexpected response to one of his actions, the so-called "side effect" of the title (nicely illustrated by Chip Kidd's jacket featuring a six-fingered hand). For example, when he helps his lesbian friend go all out looking for a date, it is amusing but cringe-inducing when she takes his advice too far, but Burrough's cockeyed optimism wins out. And when he helps his friend Debbie display pornographic signs to get back at bad drivers on the highways, the book is absolutely hilarious.
Yet Burroughs is not against presenting himself in a bad light. Part of what makes Possible Side Effects so affecting is the author's willingness to admit to his faults and flaws. He is not ashamed to discuss his alcoholism, and he practically boasts about his awful diet (McDonald's). His slovenly appearance and messy apartment are mentioned (when he gets locked out), and his lifelong selfishness and chronic bleeding from the fingers and nose cause him grief at book signings or on planes.
But what is most engaging about the stories collected here is the prismatic effect of entering Burroughs' life. He includes three distinct episodes involving wanting a pet, and how he handled each one with varying degrees of success. As readers piece together the author's experiences a moving composite of his life forms. Such is the strength of this remarkable collection.
Don't be mistaken; Hitching Rides is a very, very funny book. Ferguson's voice owes much to the snarky travel commentary popularized by Bill Bryson, except with less of a crotchety-old-man perspective. But at the same time, his observations tend to belittle his hosts and their way of life; their civic and cultural pride (he teasingly mentions every time someone calls anything in their homeland "number-one!"), their fascination with the West. (Much is made of people's insistence on referring to him as "American," even though he's from Canada.) You almost want to smack the guy, until he relates some story that mends all wounds. A moving passage describes his night spent with a family in Kanazawa whose patriarch a tortured old veteran of the Japanese military survived a WWII prison camp. Elsewhere, a young man takes him to see castles that are no longer standing, exhibiting a deep connection with what once was. Even Ferguson's assessment of the language mishmash he calls "Englese" is right on mockery or not, T-shirt slogans like "We can't be born special: Be my power present international!" are damn funny. At one point, the author says, "In Japan, the movement from Tourist to Exile to Insider is one that ends at Exile. There is no final step inside." But Ferguson takes us closer in than he gives himself credit for. If it wasn't so harshly lampooning, Hitching Rides could be tremendously deep.
Isabella Mayson was a very real woman. She married ambitious young publisher Sam Beeton when she was barely 20 years old. At age 25, she published the book that made her a household name under her husband's imprint, Beeton's Book of Household Management. As a journalist, she'd patched together everything from what to pay servants to why free-range chicken is best. Three years later, she died of syphilis, a wedding present from Sam. Every day of her short life, Isabella was a working journalist, churning out household advice books, writing columns and editing a fashion magazine. Thanks to the enterprising Sam, her name lived on with new books by Mrs. Beeton appearing to this day (most recently microwaving).
Still, no one really knew much about the real Mrs. Beeton. Several prominent writers wanted to do biographies, but the family was cautious. Later generations had been knighted and they wanted to protect Sam, not just about the syphilis but also his reputation as a publishing rascal, suing people right and left, and late in life (also a short one) publishing questionable material like pornography (which sold very well).
Author Kathryn Hughes has brought Mrs. Beeton out of the shadows in an unbelievably well-documented biography, not just about Isabella but the whole Victorian era. Don't be daunted by the size. Yes, this is a serious work, but it's also a page-turner!
Loosely, Kotler hunts for the origins of the Conductor myth, which is about a man who controls the weather, and therefore the surf. Kotler heard the story on two continents and is determined to track down its origins, which takes him from his home in California to Mexico to Bali to New Zealand. He's not a surfing newbie, but the myth and the need to get on with his life push him to become a better surfer.
Mixed in with his tracking and travels are jaunts about mysticism, adrenaline, surf movies, Australians, near-death experiences and more about Lyme disease, which is sometimes so severe that he forgets how to make coffee or work his computer.
The tangents are interesting as trivia, though they can drag. It's in the surf writing where Kotler's imagery and humor shine. Of a large wave, he writes, "it looks about the size of a house. Most people, when they find themselves directly in the path of a moving house, have an instinctual get-me-the-hell-out-of-here response. If you can ignore that response, you turn around and paddle." If you've never surfed, you can still enjoy West of Jesus, though be warned: It might inspire you to pick up a short board. For serious surfers, it's a must for in between riding waves though never leave the water while the surf is still good. You don't want to piss off the Conductor.
The above is one of literally hundreds of wonderful baseball anecdotes to be found in Peter Morris' new A Game of Inches, a comprehensive volume of who-did-what-first adding a necessary human dimension to baseball facts and figures. We find that the batting helmet was introduced by New York Giants' catcher Roger Bresnahan after a 1907 beaning. The jockstrap was first marketed in the 1880s ("The identity of the first baseball player to wear one is unknown," Morris writes, "and perhaps that's just as well"). The book illustrates how many of today's near-sacred baseball traditions began as blasphemies. "If the club batting last was ahead after eight and a half innings," Morris writes, "it wouldn't have occurred to early players not to complete the game. After all, a baseball match was a ceremony rather than a competition, and for the losers to walk off the field would be the ultimate act of poor sportsmanship." After the National League passed a rule change in 1879, the "walkoff" hit was born.
Morris quotes from scores of old newspaper articles and his bibliography includes over 250 books. While it's enough of an accomplishment to simply accumulate all this data, it's even more impressive that Morris has organized and presented this information in such an appealing manner (this summer he's publishing a follow-up volume on off-field innovations). Along with last year's award-winning Baseball Before We Knew It by David Block, A Game of Inches will change how countless fans think about the earliest moments of baseball history.
Sirota's attempts at levity fall flat; he beats a Matrix metaphor into the ground in the introduction, only to pick it up again just in time for the conclusion 275 pages later. He drones on for dozens of pages, then randomly drops references to The A-Team and Mitch Williams in consecutive sentences. He likes to point out conflicts of interest and never misses a chance to call attention to the Cato Institute's corporate funding, but he casts himself as an ordinary, if outraged, citizen rather than a political insider. It's not that he's hiding his ties they're prominently mentioned on the dust jacket but it's slightly unseemly to toast Bernie Sanders and Brian Schweitzer as heroes without acknowledging his role in shaping their messages. After all, Hostile Takeover's not for trainspotters, Sirota points out, but a practical guide for the people.
Its shortcomings are a shame, because Sirota's points, while hardly new, bear repeating. Corporate lobbyists and their congressional lapdogs have made a mess of things. Executive compensation is way out of line. Health insurance is a scam. The energy industry is morally bankrupt. The pharmaceutical industry is morally bankrupt. The banking industry is morally bankrupt. Citizens should demand more of their representatives. True enough. But the facts speak for themselves. Sirota's righteous fury just gets in the way.
If the call of the open road is your siren, you'll enjoy Cross Country. But if you can't tell the difference between Lewis and Lois and Clark and tend to shutter your ears with your iPod on long trips, Sullivan can sound like an overenthusiastic dad trying to chat the boredom out of sitting in a car for hours, which, in fact, is what he really is. Sometimes it's endearing, sometimes annoying, but that's what driving across the country with your family is all about.
Journalist Wyss tells the backstory, behind-the-scenes gossip, and communicates the excitement of "The Brimfield Rush," a legendary pre-dawn charge of eager dealers who surge onto transformed fields like Heart-o-the-Mart and Dealer's Choice seeking treasures, many of which will be "flipped" (immediately resold) at a profit.
Three annual meetings begin on the second Tuesdays of May, July and December. Wyss researched Brimfield for three years and followed the adventures of a handful of regulars. In particular, the fortunes of Pennsylvanians Joe Laskowski and Rachel McKay drive Wyss' exposition. Joe and Rachel are a couple, each of whom collects and sells paintings, prints and illustrations by regional B-list artists whose work is appreciating and, even now, can fetch thousands of dollars. They specialize in different artists and have different styles of dealing, but individually and collectively risk almost everything on art. At Rachel's lowest point, she can't afford an emergency root canal because there's no way to realize an immediate profit on the hundreds of thousands of dollars in paintings she owns.
Wyss treats the romance between Rachel and Joe more superficially than the reader might hope. Though they plan a wedding by the end of the book, their passion for art seems stronger than their feelings for one another. Still, a parade of engaging characters, from Joel Schiff, the fanatical one-legged collector of cast iron, to media pets like the Keno twins, keep us reading.
The many people and institutions from the Philadelphia area include Rachel's beloved Philadelphia Ten (actually more than 10 women painters); Maxfield Parrish; a secretive Philadelphia map collector who found a $2.42 million copy of the Declaration of Independence; realtor Howard Roberts, who has located many treasures; The Philadelphia Museum of Art; and the Samuel T. Freeman & Co. Auction Gallery. Wyss is not a scintillating writer and photographs would have been a plus, but Brimfield Rush is still a perfect summer read on your way to the show: this year July 11Ð16.
Other reasons not to like Young: He's as vapid and fame-hungry as the cast of a thousand Real World vs. Road Rules. And the critical eye he deftly turns on pop culture, marriage, sex and relationships, all fly out the window when it comes to his insatiable need for recognition, especially from the entertainment industry.
It's a need that in his first memoir, How to Lose Friends and Alienate People, quickened his fall from the seemingly enviable perch of Vanity Fair magazine, where he invariably upset big-name brand stars. Years later, married and returned to London, his gaze is fixed on the Hollywood film business. Working for a Very Powerful Producer whose name he can't mention for legal reasons, Young busies himself adapting a work of nonfiction about a legendary disco-era record producer into a script. Only it never quite takes and, at risk of being reductive, drama ensues.
At the same time Young has become a father while holding down a day job he fesses to being ill-suited for: theater critic. None of this is exciting, mind you, but the thing about Young is that despite the many reasons to dislike him, he is genuinely funny and charming. Sure, his his self-deprecation grows shticky, and his uncanny ability to make an ass of himself is suspect if only due to its almost preternatural frequency. But the funny manages to cancel out the megalomania.
Young is almost like a literary British Eminem. I'm thinking of the latter's rhyme about how he's "cursed to just blurt" and Young does just that. Gaffing and sputtering and sticking his foot in his mouth so often he might as well get kiwi-flavored toothpaste. And yet, it works. Don't ask why, just read.