Turns out, Farm Aid will give city folk less, and more, than I'd expected. Less money, but potentially more benefits.

In September, Willie Nelson, Neil Young, Dave Matthews and John Mellencamp will serenade an unspecified sum out of our pockets, removing most of the funds from our regional economy. Farm Aid officials decline to predict just how much the concert will raise. But after last year's concert in Chicago, some $660,000 was distributed to family farmer service organizations and nonprofits across the nation.

Locally, says Farm Aid's associate director, Glenda Yoder, her group gave a total of $27,500 to two groups in 2005: $7,500 to the Pennsylvania Association for Sustainable Agriculture, and $20,000 to the Food Routes Network, headquartered in Philadelphia.

Worthy groups, both. Though given the magnitude of our regional need, it's hardly enough.

At the moment, though, this area's return from the Camden benefit will not be much bigger — even though Farm Aid generously funds several sustainable farming projects that serve cities.

Big cities need local agriculture, just as much as farmers need urban consumers. Connecting family farmers with city folks is central to Farm Aid's mission, as it is for many local nonprofits.

So why isn't Farm Aid helping out more here? One big reason is that they haven't been asked.

Has the Reading Terminal Market looked into Farm Aid funds? No, says Reading Terminal general manager Paul Steinke. How about the White Dog Foundation, which runs a Reading Terminal stand that sells sustainably grown produce? Nope, says Judy Wicks. Nor did Bob Pierson ask, even though he provides transportation and coordinates farmers markets through his Farm to City program.

But all these groups say they'll be checking on Farm Aid funds this year.

Now, I don't want to be too hard on these folks. Because it's not unusual for Farm Aid to, shall we say, stimulate local sustainable agriculture. According to Yoder, one of Farm Aid's big benefits to host cities is that local-ag advocates do a little brushing up for a national spotlight.

So as Philly gets ready, let me offer a couple suggestions.

If we really want to leverage our personal food budgets and grow the local economy, the first step is to ask where our food comes from.

But sourcing our food isn't as easy it as should be. Even at the Reading Terminal Market — which Farm Aid chose as the symbolic center of local farming — many of the merchants don't, won't or can't tell you.

I've asked many of the produce stands, lunch counters and most of its seafood vendors. I get a lot of doubletalk, but I plan on continuing to ask — and so should you.

Now would be a great time for City Council to take the lead on labeling food origins, stepping in where the feds have failed. Stop worrying about goose livers, folks, and start investing in our neighborhood's health, economy and quality of life.

Some smart councilman, alone, could easily bring beautiful food and a good dose of sustainable economic development to his district.

Expand the success of the Water Department's model urban farmer program [Loose Canon, "Bet a Farm on Mira," June 29].

Make headlines and make friends by finding a neglected tract of city land to launch a farm.

And finally, since July 15 through 22 is "Buy Fresh, Buy Local Week," it's time for all of us to start making serious pests of ourselves.

Ask where your food comes from, especially when you dine out. Noodge the servers. And get help by checking out the Fair Food guide to markets and restaurants that source their food locally. Additional copies are still available at City Paper, and more info is online at www.foodroutes.org.

Farm Aid will soon be asking us to benefit family farmers. Let's see that those benefits extend to all of us.