Kitchen Unconfidential

Strapping on the apron with Amy Sedaris.

by A.D. Amorosi

But what's occupied her time most recently is writing and art directing the silly but purpose-filled I Like You: Hospitality Under the Influence (Warner Books), a colorful volume of tongue-in-cheek tales, illustrations and photos that show off her not-so-hidden Martha. Raised Greek Orthodox, Sedaris reveals the best recipes for spanikopita and Greek beans, but she also regales the reader with hostess ideas, theme nights, grooming tips and platitudes to suit all. "A self-realized person will ... have a hairstyle that is flattering to some and offensive to few, have access to money and never cry herself to sleep in front of others," she writes.

City Paper: You wrote this book with help from Paul Dinello and Antonia Xereas, you art directed, and of course you cooked or at least sampled the cooking. What's your best strength within all that?

Amy Sedaris: A lot of the food in the book I didn't make only because I was busy art directing in the other room so I had a friend do a lot of the cooking and baking. I gave specific directions on how I wanted the cakes to look and I knew what I wanted them to say — but I didn't make them. So I am really good at coming up with ideas and I am really fantastic at giving orders. Working on the book was like working on a movie. Only this time I was the director, which is something I never thought I would like, but I loved. Thanks to the cast, the book is exactly what I wanted.

CP: Do you hate that people think that you can do darned near everything?

AS: I can't do anything. I like trying, though. Reach for the stars — the lowest.

CP: I love that I Like You is as much a book for guesting as it hosting and cheffing. Was there a bad guest experience that lingered in your life, other than the people you write about who just come and dye their hair, or the inebriated ones?

AS: I didn't want to limit the book just to people who entertained. A lot of people can't just because they don't have the room. It's important to see it from both sides. If a guest has this information, it will help make the party a hit.

CP: What was the exact moment of fleshy genesis to make you do I Like You?

AS: I wanted to do a cookbook. I wanted to do an art book. I wanted to show off all my talented friends. I wanted to make something that illiterate people or children could enjoy without having to rely on the text. I like performing for deaf people and I like doing books for the illiterate. I even picked out the stitching that holds the whole book together.

CP: You and Ina Garten, the Barefoot Contessa. Or Rachel Ray. Is there a big difference or kinship with the modern masters of the food/entertainment guides, or is just Betty Crocker all the way?

AS: I'm not familiar with today's food and entertainment ladies. My influences were the people who were around when I was growing up, including local hospitality shows. I remember The Galloping Gourmet and Julia Child. I love the look of all the old Betty Crocker type books. I never thought the recipes were good but visually I was drawn to them.

CP: Seriously, what's the most savory dish in the book?

AS: Chicken of the Taverns. It's really good, hearty, easy to make and everyone loves it. It's the lemon that makes it.

CP: What's the one dish that you took out of the book at the last minute, something you just thought, "Maybe I really shouldn't do this"?

AS: I ended up taking out a strawberry pretzel salad someone gave me. It just seemed too jokey and unbelievable.

CP: Do you remember the last time you were in Mary's Fish Camp and what the last thing said was, other than "check please"?

AS: "Where are these cockles from?"

(a_amorosi@citypaper.net)