Down by the River

At Water Works, an older crowd packs a young chef's restaurant.

by Trey Popp

No doubt due to ample parking and a location within easy striking distance of Chestnut Hill and beyond, Water Works seems to be drawing an older and slightly stodgier crowd than most of the recent additions to Philly's dining scene. But with 24-year-old chef Adan Trinidad directing things in the kitchen, it's hard to pin down exactly what the restaurant is going for. This is a place where lamb chops are dressed conservatively in a simple mint sauce, but the nightly special can be a grilled Thai snapper swimming (with its head and teeth intact) in kimchi and mojo, a South American citrus-based sauce. A lump crab cake appetizer comes, predictably, with a remoulade, but lobster is served with horchata foam — the kind of Mr. Wizard creation typically associated with the iconoclastic cuisine of Spain's Ferran Adria.

HOT TUNA: Adan Trinidad's seared cuts sit pretty atop dallops of fava bean puree. : Michael T. Regan

Of course, there is nothing wrong with an eatery that can please a novelty-obsessed foodie and his steak-and-starches grandfather in the same sitting, especially when it allows its patrons so much time to linger over their choices.

On a recent Friday night that found the restaurant fully booked, my party asked our server for more time on at least five occasions over the course of a three-hour dinner. Not once did we feel hurried. It's nice to be able to truly relax in those plush, high-backed chairs. Even the coat check service — a no-nonsense hanger rack right by the entrance where you can stow your jacket yourself if you want — seems designed to make you feel at ease. And the soaring main dining room, with its water-curtain fountain in the middle, is an elegant place to stretch out a meal.

The cuisine is Mediterranean with dashes of South American eclecticism thrown in. (Trinidad used to work at El Vez.) There is a small plates menu designed for the cocktail crowd, but expect ample portions from the dinner menu. Our server singled out the sliced duck breast entree, plated with mashed sweet potatoes, as one of the lighter items on offer, but there was nothing skimpy about it. And no one is going to go hungry after eating the rack of lamb — especially considering the deceptively light fried goat-cheese dumplings hiding beneath the accompanying watercress and artichoke salad.

Like those dishes, there was something earthy and autumnal about the squares of rare tuna perched atop piles of fava bean puree — an unusual and laudable pairing in an era when seared tuna is often dressed with something spicy or acidic. The grilled octopus appetizer was also distinctive, with a pleasantly smoky flavor and tenderness that gave the dish a character almost in line with land-dwelling meat. The total lack of fishiness speaks well of the restaurant's seafood supplier. The seared watermelon with feta and aged balsamic vinegar, however, wasn't as successful as it would have been a month or two ago, when the fruit was in peak season. I hope the kitchen will pay heed to the time of year.

The wine list covers a broad price range with a limited number of selections, but makes up in thoughtfulness what it lacks in size. The best values are to be found in Australian and American vintages, where the markup can be as low as double retail. The Barrel Monkeys Shiraz is a muscular red for $40, and Quivira's Sauvignon Blanc is a reliable quaff at $28. The French reds are well-chosen but carry a bigger premium from low end to high. Chateau Cos d'Estournel may be the best Bordeaux outside of the Big Five, but $350 is about triple retail, as is $100 for Guigal's Chateauneuf du Pape.

A couple months into its new life, Water Works is getting a lot right. But with prices that cross the $30 mark in the case of some entrees, it is going to have to work hard to bring BYO-bred foodies back a second and third time. Adding a few extra nightly specials — especially if they're as creative as that Thai snapper — would give Trinidad a chance to make the most of his considerable talent. After all, free parking may guarantee a solid client base, but there is no reason why Water Works shouldn't aspire to bring adventurous city walkers to the riverfront as well.

Especially now that they know how to dress for the occasion.

(trey.popp@citypaper.net)