All Aboard

Anthony Bonett rocks the boat at The Oceanaire.

by Maxine Keyser

"Darling, this is too, too divine!"

I can't believe those words escape my lips as I enter The Oceanaire, but they're truly appropriate. Fashioned after the classic 1930s ocean liner, this 11th edition of the nationwide chain, located at Seventh and Walnut streets, promises an upscale thrill in fresh seafood like no other.

First, the staff is geared to serve — from the girl who helps me up the front steps to the waiter who gives me a black napkin so no lint will sully my black trousers. My party is not complete, so I head for the stunning curved bar, and as I order a martini, my friends arrive. The bartender leaves the bar and carries my martini to my table as I gape at the huge dining room, all sleek leather booths and wood paneling with Art Deco touches. I've never smoked, but I feel the need for an ivory cigarette holder. The fact that Anthony Bonett is the executive chef here just sweetens the whole deal. Bonett, whose career I've followed from Tony Clark's to Opus 251 to Wild Tuna, is a dandy chef, and The Oceanaire is fortunate to have him at the helm.

I stop oohing and ahhing for a moment to study the wine list — large, comprehensive and affordable, with more than 30 wines by the glass, and even 10 half-bottles. A glass of sauvignon blanc from the Touraine should do me for now, but I do wonder why there are no muscadets, since oysters are in my future. They feature a number of fresh ones, and we split a dozen: two Blue Points, two Fanny Bay, two Hama Hama, two Hammersley, two Kumamoto and two Malpeques. The Fanny Bay, from British Columbia, are meaty and lush, as are the Malpeque, and the Kumamoto have a briny edge that is most appealing. Later, I do find a muscadet from the Loire, perfect with seafood and only $27 a bottle.

COLD HARBOR: The oyster selection includes Hama Hamas, Hammersleys, Kumamotos, Malpeques and more. : Michael T. Regan

Among the appetizers are costly stone crab claws and New Orleans classics like oysters Rockefeller and shrimp de Jonghe that are properly executed and taste great. I also note that a loaf of bread and a relish tray have appeared on the table. When was the last time you saw a relish tray?

We order an amuse bouche of Dungeness crab in an endive leaf for the table, but I bypass this, the gravlax, clams casino and escargot for Bonett's crab cake, which can be had as an appetizer or an entree. These big, lumpy cakes, with no visible filler and a mustard mayo on the side, may be the best I've had in a long time. They remind me of those in a joint off of I-95 in Bel Air, Md., that I thought were the best until I ate these. The clam chowder is tasty, the mushroom soup more so, and the salads are fresh and imaginative — beets, goat cheese and candied walnuts, BLT with buttermilk-bacon dressing, even my old-time favorite, green goddess.

The list of fresh fish is seemingly endless, and each bears Bonett's signature touch. Pan-seared Georges Bank sea scallops are splendid with a puree of celery root, and Dominican cobia is wrapped in speck and sauced with foie gras. Provenance is displayed for every fish — Rhode Island skate wing is spiced up with a romesco sauce, and Australian hiramasa, a fish with which I am totally unfamiliar, is spicier still with peanuts and red curry.

All of these delicacies come at a price, of course — a friend's grilled Dover sole is sumptuous at $42.95, live lobster is $23 a pound, surf and turf is a whopping $67.45, and my humble fish and chips is $17.95. Of course, it is Yuengling beer-batter-dipped cod, and the chips are enough to satisfy Oliver Twist for many days to come.Order vegetables on the side and it will raise your bill even higher. Delicious fall squash with oyster mushrooms and cranberries works well and is $7.95, or you can get fantastic hashed browns for $6.95

The desserts are standard for a seafood restaurant (Key lime pie, New York cheesecake, a root beer float, etc.), but all are well done. Baked Alaska really enhances the nostalgia I felt upon entering The Oceanaire, and moreover facing the green goddess. Can you be nostalgic for something you've never personally experienced? I was a mere babe when these clipper ships were in their glory — I guess it's more Bette Davis and Paul Henreid plighting their troth with cigarettes on the upper deck than anything real.

The Baked Alaska flames up like my youth, but doesn't taste as good as the chocolate banana bread pudding — a dessert so huge and gooey and chocolatey that I stop musing and just eat.

The Oceanaire has a prix fixe "boarding" dinner from 5 to 6:30 p.m. for $30 that should go over well with theatergoers. I, for one, will be back for more of Bonett's cooking — and for a heavy dose of time past.

(m_keyser@citypaper.net)

The Oceanaire

700 Walnut St. 215-625-8862

Mon.-Thu., 5-10 p.m.; Fri.—Sat., 5-11 p.m.; Sun., 5-9 p.m.

Appetizers, $8.95-$16.95; grand shellfish platter, $35-$69; caviar service, $75; entrees: $17.95-$42.95

Wheelchair accessible.Valet parking.Reservations required. All major credit cards accepted.