Polish Pit Stops

Pole Lotta Love

by Kelly White

Since 1959, Port Richmond's Polish population has been lining up outside Marian's for a hit of the sweet stuff. The major demand is for the cheese babka, a yeast coffee cake that went from being an Easter Sunday staple to a year-round favorite. Just as beloved is the makowiec, a poppy seed swirl cake rolled up with or without walnuts. Wit!

Step into New Poland and you'll smell kielbasa from blocks away. The perpetrator is Czerw's, but the market isn't known for smoked sausage alone. Locals also love the cheesesteak pierogies and Polish Hunter's Stew, made with sauerkraut, kielbasa, roast beef, roast pork, ham, bacon and mushroom.

Plump paczki make ordinary jelly doughnuts look like featherweights. The golden pockets are filled with mixed berry jam, then deep-fried and dusted with powdered sugar or a glazed frosting. Get 'em fresh at Krakus, an authentic Polish supermarket laden with European delicacies, imported beer and, most importantly, tabloids straight from Warsaw.

Silently infiltrate the dimly lit New Wave Cafe and covertly slide onto a stool at the bar, and you'll still turn every head in the place. It's worth the awkwardness, though—the pickle soup is made with serious Pole soul. The vegetable-based broth stands out with a succinct twist of dill that accompanies carrots and mashed potatoes. Just try not to slurp too loud.

At the dirt-cheap Syrenka, pierogies and potato pancakes are made to order, but it's the golabki that really hits the spot. The Polish specialty consists of stuffed cabbage leaves packed with ground beef, onions and rice.