FOOD .

Sake to Me

Demystifying Japan's most beloved brew.


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Published: Apr 3, 2007

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In Japanese culture, friends pour each other's sake as a way to bond and show respect. In honor of that tradition, and in preparation for the third annual Sake Fest on April 11, we're highlighting a few of our favorite sakes. Unlike wine, which is broken down by varietals, sake is classified according to its milling process and additives. Here, we've got low-end sakes, high-end sakes and sakes that'll knock you on the floor. We've even got suggested food pairings. Just be prepared to sip in public — area restaurants offer a much wider selection for the serious sake student than do state stores.

Kira

The translation is "evil demon," but this Honjozo (sake made of water, yeast, koji mold, added distilled alcohol and rice polished 30 percent) is hardly damnable. It boasts the earthy flavor of a cider, plus hints of brazil nuts, cashews and cinnamon. Try it with: Gyozo shrimp dumplings. (Fuji Mountain, 2030 Chestnut St., 215-751-0939)

Hitorimusume Sayaka

This Junmai (water, koji mold, yeast and rice polished 30 percent) has a crisp, slightly dry taste pegged with orange and berry. Try it with: Kasane soba noodles and delicate vegetable tempura. (Goji, 2001 Hamilton St., 215-569-1667)

Kariho Namahage

Kariho (aka Devil Mask) leaves a tingling warmth in the back of the throat. The aroma smacks of walnut and cedar, and the flavor touches on mint, anise and vermouth. Try it with: Garlic shrimp with bonito flakes. (Haru, 241 Chestnut St., 215-861-8991)

Ohyama

Half as sweet as a freezer pop, Ohyama's flavor is tempered by floral accents and a playfully dry bite. Think candied oranges, strawberries and daffodils with just a drop of bittersweet chocolate. Try it with: Umeshiso maki or a Diamond roll. (Goji)

Bishonen

This Ginjo (like Honjozo, but milled 40 percent) washes down like silk, its garland of flavor so light it practically evaporates off the tongue. Only the peppery-sweet burn reminds you that it's more than just very expensive water. Try it with: A Dynamite Roll with tempura-fried eel and tuna sushi. (Haru)

Tousetsuka

This Junmai Ginjo (like Junmai, but milled 40 percent) bursts like water from a snow-fed stream, splashed with gin, mint and a touch of lavender. Try it with: Smoky shrimp shumai. (Raw Sake & Sushi Lounge, 1225 Sansom St., 215-238-1903)

Meibo

More complex than the Ohyama, the Meibo is spiked with subtle fruit flavors. Cantaloupe and apple accents ride on a smooth body like small bits of fruit in a large punch bowl. Try it with: Nile perch with creamy potatoes and basil ponzu vinaigrette. (Goji)

Masumi Sanka

Higher-quality sakes like this Dai Ginjo are too good to mix with food. It's bold and full-bodied, punched with hints of apple and wood. A fragrant aroma teases the nose, but sipping reveals some serious musculature. Imagine a tulip with Venus Fly Trap ancestry. (Fuji Mountain)

Denemon

A top-quality sake, this Junmai Dai Ginjo (50 percent polish) must be sipped slowly to reveal each new flavor: sweet licorice, lychee, honeydew and lilac. Together, they engulf your tongue with the warmth of a lover's embrace. (Raw)

(editorial@citypaper.net)

Sake Fest 2007, Wed., April 11, 6-8:30 p.m., $45-$55, Loews Philadelphia Hotel, 1200 Market St., 610-649-6330, www.sakefest.com.