Market Resurge

Talking with Judy Faye about the renewed Italian Market Festival.

by Merilyn Jackson

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Published: May 16, 2007

Judy Faye has long produced the popular Book and the Cook series, which celebrates Philadelphia-area restaurants and food writers both local and national. But few know that Faye also runs Ninth Street's Italian Market Festival � and walks it, too. She resides on the market's east edge and is friendly with many of the merchants.

"When the festival started in 1971, I already lived there," says Faye. The event, however, fell by the wayside in the mid-'90s, in sharp contrast to the success of Faye's other pet project. "Street construction and burnout ended it," she says of the forces behind its demise. Fortunately, the festival found new life in 2003, when Buffalo-based Sorrento Cheese offered to come on as an annual sponsor. The six-year gap has seen considerable ethnic and economic changes in the area, shifts that'll surely be reflected in the programming of this year's event, scheduled for May 19 and 20.

Start at Fitzwater Street to sample everything from peeled mangoes to roasted goat sandwiches. Hit Ninth and Montrose beginning at noon Saturday and 1 p.m. Sunday to check out chefs' demonstrations that'll feature talent from Vesuvio, Clementine's Bistro and other area restaurants.

Inaugurated in 2003, the Big Cheese competition features local VIPs tossing pizza dough and filling cannoli at Ninth and Washington. This year's competitors include Steve Bucci of CBS 3, CN8's Connie Colla and Karen Gross, editor of travel and lifestyle magazine Where. "It isn't so easy," says Faye. "We break cannoli in half to check its structure. A bubble in the middle � you lose." PastaPalooza has finalists touting their tagliatelle dishes to win a $1,000 shopping spree.

New to this year's festival is a half ball competition (half ball is South Philly-style stickball). Don't forget the music � on Sunday, Kenny Gamble and Leon Huff will welcome the legendary Blue Notes to the Sorrento Cheese Stage at Ninth and Washington. Cambodian court dancers, the Al-Bustan Percussion Ensemble and a Mexican cumbia band sponsored by La Lupe are also scheduled to perform.

Shoppers and residents alike know that, for all its red, white and green glory, the market is a true study in multiculturalism. What began as a Jewish epicenter was transformed by an influx of Italian immigrants; now, Pan-Asian, Mexican and Middle Eastern purveyors season each block with international foodstuffs. Of course, this has led to some fusion foods. "Mozzapres are Mexican arepas [corn cakes] with melted mozzarella," says Faye. "Dunk them in salsa or red gravy as you walk the street."

(editorial@citypaper.net)

Sorrento Cheese 9th Street Italian Market Festival, Sat-Sun., May 19-20, 10 a.m.-5 p.m., www.9thstreetitalianmarketfestival.com.

 

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