FOOD . Pocket Sommelier

Mercato

New Italian cuisine with an inventive flair.


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Published: May 30, 2007

1216 Spruce St., 215-985-2962

Few places capture the essence of Philly's BYOB culture quite like Mercato, with its cozy atmosphere and casual vibe. Executive chef R. Evan Turney and chef de cuisine Mackenzie Hilton focus on market-fresh ingredients to present New Italian cuisine with inventive flair.

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Chianti is one of the most versatile food pairing partners, but its soul mate is tomato- and meat-based pasta like Mercato's rich ricotta gnocchi in a short rib ragu. Chianti's racy acidity complements the tomato-based ragu, and it has just the right amount of tannins to stand up to the delicately tender short rib.

The Da Vinci Chianti D.O.C.G. 2005 (PLCB No. 9380, $11.99) works well here, but the smoother, more nuanced Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Brolio D.O.C.G. 2003 (PLCB No. 6319, $17.99) is a superior choice, since its fuller body better matches the weight of the dish.

The intensely flavorful braised Jamison Farm lamb shank (pictured) that Mercato recently added to the menu, however, demands a wine with more muscle. The Alexander Valley Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Wetzel Family Estate 2004 (PLCB Code No. 11763, $21.99) fits the bill: This wine's tannins are firm enough to counterbalance both the succulent, organic lamb and the tangy bed of watercress on which it sits. The wine's bell pepper and floral notes also spotlight the fresh herbaceous jus and the zesty gremolata accenting this addictive entrée.