Golden State
Enjoying Italian wines — by way of the West Coast?
wine
The California wine industry was built and marketed by clans with names like Gallo, Mondavi, Sebastiani and Martini — and almost exclusively French vines. Today, acre after acre is planted with cabernet sauvignon, merlot and chardonnay grapes, a fact that is neatly mirrored on the shelves of wine stores.
This situation is likely to remain the norm for future generations, but there is always experimenting going on along the edges of the family farm, with a recent trend that seems to represent a sort of returning to one's roots — in every sense. The interesting irony of Italian winemakers promoting French viticulture now takes on a new twist with the so-called "Cal Itals."
You don't have to be Italian to plant Italian grapes in California, but one suspects that the Mondavis always kept a patch of Sangiovese going for the homemade Chianti at the Sunday meal. Tuscan fruit seems to be the most popular Italian grape for planting in the New World. (That is among red wine; the mass-marketed and generally anemic white-fruit-based pinot grigio is not included in this mini survey.) Barbera, one of the principal grapes of Piedmont, also has a solid following.
So far, few on these shores have been brave enough to tackle the austere, unforgiving Nebbiolo, the king of Piedmont grapes, and the source of mighty Barolo. Southern Italian wines are still something of a novelty in the U.S. market, and that myriad of varieties cannot be found in California vineyards, although some still cling to the belief that zinfandel, widely planted here, derives from Apulia's Primitivo grapes. (Oenologists more recently traced zinfandel to Hungary.)
Cal Itals are somewhat difficult to find (forget about the Stalinist state stores) but worth the hunt. For vintners, they tend to be labors of love, not profit leaders, so they can be excellent values. Our 10 tasters agreed that the quality and level of sophistication of these wine was consistently high — although we all had favorites. In descending order of preference:
Seghesio Barbera 2005 ($22)
A beautiful, elegant wine (pictured); bone dry, yet bursting with bright berry tones, as well as licorice, mint and a touch of tobacco. We had some minor carps; what one taster called creamy was picked up by a detractor as cotton candy, even medicinal.
Renwood Barbera 2004 ($10)
Black fruit and chocolate, similar brilliance and balance as the Seghesio. A hint of sweetness in the fruit. The characteristic Piedmontese astringency put off a couple of tasters.
Silverado Vineyards Sangiovese 2004 ($19)
Big body, cherries and currants on the nose with a citrus undertone and a pleasing finish. Everyone liked this one, even if it was nobody's No. 1. Opens up nicely in the glass.
Unti Segromigno 2005 ($23)
This is mostly Sangiovese, with some Barbera and a touch of syrah. Leathery nose with a touch of sulphur, and racy in the mouth, perhaps due to the 14.4 percent alcohol level. Balance too bitter for some.
Mondavi "La Famiglia" Sangiovese 2001 ($14)
Warm, grapey and friendly, with black currants and spearmint tones. Pleasing tartness. Nothing too exciting here. One taster warns of a strangely acidic finish.
Sobon Estate Sangiovese 2005 ($10)
Light body, yet caramel, nut, chocolate and tar flavors get through. A bit acrid, and a metallic finish counted against this screw-top special. As with all of these wines, the full potential of this modestly appealing brew is completely dependent on the meal it must accompany. Bring on the osso bucco.
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