But Once a Year

We ask Philly's finest what they like on the side.


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Published: Nov 13, 2007

thanksgiving

Felicia D'Ambrosio

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Brushed with butter, glazed with drippings and as brown as Malibu Barbie, the turkey is the de facto star of most holiday meals. But though they're relegated to supporting roles, the beverages and side dishes that accompany the Thanksgiving bird are the real keepers of family tradition, the inspirations behind long drives to grandma's house in killer traffic and trans-Atlantic phone calls to pin down that one heirloom recipe.

Chef Jose Garces of Amada and Tinto summed up the unshakable appeal of this time of year perfectly. "Thanksgiving is the most special holiday because it's not commercialized," he says. "It's only about sharing a meal with friends and family — and being thankful you are together."

We've collected side-centric Thanksgiving memories from some of Philly's best. Visit citypaper.net/thanksgiving to learn how to make some of these dishes yourself this holiday.

The Chef
Jose Garces, chef/owner, Amada, Tinto
"My mom made corn humitas (see recipe) when I was growing up, which is a traditional Ecuadorian dish like a corn tamale stuffed with queso fresco. It's tasty and breaks up the monotony of traditional sides. Empanadas were another family dish, stuffed with picadillo — ground beef, sofrito, cilantro, hard-boiled eggs and raisins. We've been frying turkeys (see recipe) for about 10 years now; it's the best way to have a turkey and it only takes an hour. No muss, no fuss — do it outside."

The Brewer
Tom Kehoe, president, Yards Brewing Co.
"The food that sticks out to me as part of a time and place is my grandmother's [sausage] stuffing (see recipe), a meal in itself. You can always mix the ingredients together and make the stuffing, but when your grandmother made it, it had a secret ingredient: love. The love of a grandmother making food for her whole family is the secret. Thanksgiving is the only meal that will give you a food hangover that lasts through Black Friday."

The Olympian
Dawn Staley, gold medalist, head coach, Temple Women's Basketball
"My mom's turkey is to die for, but I love her sweet potato casserole that I use as a dip for my homemade dinner rolls or biscuits. Anything my mom cooks makes my mouth water. Christmas favorites are mom's mac and cheese, string beans and yams."

The Wine Merchant
David Moore, co-owner, Moore Brothers Wine Co.
"It was only two years ago that I really learned to love Champagne. It was my first Christmas Day with my wife, and we opened a bottle of Diebolt-Vallois Champagne and spent a few hours being goo-goo-eyed before leaving to go to our respective families for dinner. We met up again around 10 p.m., and found the half-full bottle of Champagne still sitting on the coffee table. It was barely sparkling, but had taken on deeper flavors and textures. I will never forget that day and night, nor the beautiful bottle of Champagne that brought my wife and I closer."

The Eater
"Humble" Bob Shoudt, seventh-ranked competitive eater in the world
"The holiday food that means the most to me is a dish called baked pineapple (see recipe), which I never had growing up. My then-girlfriend and future wife made it for her family every holiday, and I loved it right off the bat. It is a very sweet side dish that I could not get enough of. Whenever I eat it now each holiday, I think back to the time I first had it. Even though we had only been dating a short time, I knew we would spend the rest of our lives together. Twenty-some years later, and we are still together. She still makes it — just for me, as she never did like it."

The Mayor
Michael Nutter, mayor-elect
"My favorite thing to eat at holiday time is macaroni and cheese. I am more of an eater than a preparer, though I do take charge of cleaning up the kitchen afterward. However, I do help with the food preparation in one important way — I am the official taster for the collard greens."

(felicia.dambrosio@citypaper.net)