FOOD .

The Luxx Life

Novelty rarely strikes in the Philly bar scene.


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Published: Nov 27, 2007

Sometimes, novelty strikes where you least expect it. In Philadelphia's bar scene, it rarely strikes at all. But if you're looking for something more than worth your while, there's a basement on Third Street waiting to be discovered.

On paper, Beneluxx doesn't sound all that fresh. Actually, it sounds a little pompous. Its Web site heralds the place as the brainchild of "a Belgian Knight of Chevalier du Fourquet des Brasseurs" whose nose is insured for $6 million. (That's proprietor Michael Naessens, who also owns Eulogy Belgian Tavern.) Just what you need, right? Another Belgian shrine brought to you by a self-important prick.

Dead wrong. If there ever was a place that failed so splendidly to fit its billing, Beneluxx is it. For starters, it's located below grade. Once you get down there, it resembles an unprepossessing, small-town European pub. Friendly barkeeps, simple stools and tables, nothing snooty or dressed-up about it.

Except that the tables aren't so simple after all. Each one is outfitted with a tiny dishwasher that accommodates a single glass. Which brings us to back to the name on the canvas sign outside — Beneluxx Tasting Room. Mark that down, because it merits a truth-in-advertising award.

This is a place where virtually everything is available by the taste. Wine comes by the ounce, beer by the beakerful, cheese by the slice, chocolate practically by the chip. A generous pricing scheme marks up bottles by a bare minimum, and then divides that number by straight volume increments.

In other words, there is no penalty for sticking to the small end of the spectrum. Want to try a white Rhone blend from Tablas Creek? $1.49. How about a seriously good Monastrell from Castano Hecula? That's 99 cents an ounce, or $5.49 a glass. Outside of Tria's Sunday School, that's the best wine deal in town by a mile. And of the 40-odd wines on the list, there's hardly a dud to be found.

The hot fare is hit-or-miss. Duck sausage wrapped in a savory crepe pushed my button; a shrimp-covered pissaladiere was mediocre; apple fondue was good for a few bites but grew heavy too soon. But the cheese and chocolate lists more than make up for it. The beer list was fetching, too, but tearing myself away from the wine was just too hard.

What would it take to bring that $6 million nose to my neighborhood?

(t_popp@citypaper.net)

Beneluxx Tasting Room

33 S. Third St.

215-413-1918

beneluxx.com

Starters, $5.99-$7.99

Sandwiches, $7.99-$9.99

Hours: Tue.-Thu., 5 p.m.-mid; Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; closed Sunday and Monday.