Matzo Ball Soup

TORAH! TORAH! TORAH!

by Tami Fertig

Everything is bigger at this long-standing New York-style corner deli —and that goes double for the soup. A single squishy matzo sphere the size of a coconut sits at the center, surrounded by bow-tie pasta, hearty chicken chunks, celery and carrots. For $12, you can upgrade to the "Famous Chicken Soup," which includes kreplach (noodles filled with meat and potatoes), rice, kasha and matzo balls. It feeds two to three hungry giants.

Based on co-owner Sheryl Borish's grandmother's recipe, Marathon's matzo ball soup could totally qualify as gourmet. It's got a perfectly rounded ball, just-salty-enough broth and sprigs of fresh dill on top. FYI for cheapies: A bowl costs slightly more at Marathon's Rittenhouse restaurant (1839 Spruce St.) than at its other locations.

Homemade soup goes fast at this Reading Terminal stand — it often runs out of the good stuff by lunchtime. A piping-hot cup comes with several bite-sized balls, which are denser and chewier than most varieties, but no less toothsome. Save a teeny bit by ordering it with half an overstuffed sandwich (corned beef, pastrami, etc.) washed down with an egg cream.

This belly-warmer's charm lies in its simplicity: Rather than crowd the bowl with distractions, Zeke's goes light on the veggies and shredded chicken bits, allowing you to focus on the spongy dumplings and the fatty broth they absorb. Less than four bucks gets you a gut-busting take-home quart.

A small portion of the "Jewish Penicillin" will set you back $4.75 at Kibitz, but hey, they provide two incredibly thick and yummy rye bread slices for dipping. The giant centerpiece is fluffy as a pillow, the vegetables are tender and the broth's light and mellow. What more do you want?