DIY Insulation

Published: Feb 20, 2008

In your standard row home, which architect Hap Haven says is more prevalent in Philadelphia than in any other American city, the area behind most walls is hollow. Chances are, a lot of your heat is being circulated through these areas and going to waste. Haven's got a do-it-yourself insulation technique on phillygreenhome.com that can salvage significant amounts of heat. (Haven estimates that with $50 in materials, you can save a minimum of $100 on your heating bill for the winter.) All you need is a drill with a half-inch masonry bit, four to six cans of foam, painter's tape and spackle:

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1 Drill holes every 16 inches on all outside walls.

Keep the holes about 4 to 6 inches below the ceiling. Start in a closet until you get the hang of how deep the wall cavity is. Rock the drill from left to right once you have drilled through into the wall cavity. This creates a horizontal slot into which you'll insert the can's nozzle.

2 Insert the nozzle up to the left and start foaming for about 6 seconds.

Repeat the foaming down and to the right. Angling slightly up and down will give the foam more space to expand. The two areas of expanding foam will meet in the middle and push out the hole. Remember to shake the foam cans from time to time, and watch out for extra foam that might fall off the tip of the tube.

3 Have someone come behindyou and put tape on the wall.

Create a "shelf" of extra wide painter's tape an inch or two below the hole. This should catch the excess foam as it expands out of the hole. Check on this foam from time to time until it has stopped expanding. Don't tape over the hole. You want the foam to expand out of the hole so it's easy to snap off when it's dry.

4 Snap off, then spackle and paint.

Let the foam cure for a minimum of two hours. At this time, you should be able to snap it off cleanly from the wall. Scrape off any excess with a spackle knife. Spackle and paint as necessary.

 

Comments

Assuming the row house is brick, it would be easiest to drill through mortar joints as opposed to the brick. It's also easier to scrape foam residue off of mortar joints than off of the brick. Repointing the mortar joints to conceal the holes is also preferable than painting brick that might not already be painted. Brick doesn't need to be painted. If you have an unpainted brick house be thankful that you have one less maintenance item on your plate.

Mortar used in repointing should be consistant in strength, color and finish with the adjacent mortar. Pre-mixed mortar typically has a high portland cemement content and is intended for concrete block construction, not softer, historic brick. High portland content will damage your brick.

by Pete Brown on February 19th 2009 12:31 PM



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