Dos Def

A second branch of the magical Cantina materializes in NoLibs.

by David Snyder

Given the success of Cantina Los Caballitos, owners Dave Frank and Stephen Simons recently decided to double down with Cantina Dos Segundos in Northern Liberties.

Yes, fans will find the setting familiar — burnt orange walls, distressed wood floors, punched tin wall sconces. But those looking for Dos to re-create the Caballitos scene may be disappointed — it's simply not something you can export from South Philly.

After all, the Cantina has transformed the East Passyunk corridor into an oft-absurd mecca of local nightlife. The street was indeed abuzz a few Fridays ago when Project Runway Season One winner Jay McCarroll held court outside the restaurant, leaning on a car, while a popped-collared cohort cradling his toy dog approached him to chat. Many al fresco diners acted too cool for school — but still quietly called their friends to brag that McCarroll was there. Not really something you can up and transplant to NoLibs.

But Dos doesn't need it — there's enough originality here to spawn its own fan base. For starters, I can't stop craving the house-made chorizo. The deep flavors of cumin and juicy rendered pork fat shine best in the tacos.

In the tasty torta al pastor, a Mexican sandwich, pork legs soak up a traditional marinade, which includes sweet ground canella (Mexican cinnamon), before roasting on a trompo, or vertical rotisserie. The fat telera rolls sourced from Las Lomas Bakery drink up the al pastor's delicious caramelized juices.

They dice sushi-grade bluefin for wonderfully filling tostadas atun. A special of sopa camote, a vegetarian roasted sweet potato soup, harmonizes layers of sweet and smoky with dried chipotles and rich crema.

But not all the dishes had me cheering. Both the burrito atun and the chimichanga carnitas estilo michoacan, made with fried pork, were dry; some servers were unaccustomed to offering sour cream and guacamole. The calabaza, a vegan soup made with fresh pumpkin, had little flavor.

There's a chic Southern Hemispheric wine list in play, and I love that Dos keeps it authentico by serving wine in tumblers. But it's a mistake to offer the Cava, Spanish sparkling wine, the same way. The wide glass makes the bubbly go flat quickly, which defeats the purpose.

Dos may not yet be the hang its predecessor has become. But its thoughtful menu is something worth calling your friends about.

(d_snyder@citypaper.net)

Cantina Dos Segundos | 931 N. Second St., 215-629-0500, cantinadossegundos.com

Hours: Mon.-Fri., 4 p.m.-2 a.m.; Sat.-Sun., 11 a.m.-2 a.m.

Appetizers, $3-$13; Entrées, $8-$24

Wheelchair accessible