Who Is that Masked Man?

The high-flying vibrancy of Mexico, D.F., ignites at Jose Garces' Distrito.

by David Snyder

Shirley Nicole Fonner PLAY IT TO THE BONE: Distrito's tuetano, herb breadcrumb-topped marrow. (CLICK IMAGE FOR LARGER VERSION)

It's not easy hanging 600 wrestling masks on a wall. Even if you are an Iron Chef champion.

"It was quite a daunting task, putting them up there," Jose Garces confessed recently, a couple of weeks after besting Bobby Flay on Food Network's Iron Chef America.

Today, a luminous tapestry of pink, green and gold masks dominates the white metal fence lining the interior stairs of Distrito, Garces' new Mexican small-plates spot in University City. Soft light ignites glittered trim, flooding the space with an electrifying, carnival-like glow.

For many luchadores, or Mexican pro wrestlers, the masks are a sacred part of their theatrical, acrobatic ringcraft. And in Mexico City, or "Distrito Federal" — the metropolis that inspired the name of this addition to the Garces empire — it's common to see façades dressed in these masks outside the arenas where luchadores perform.

On its face, erecting such a wall in a restaurant may seem kitschy, but here, it's far from out of place. In fact, it's an integrated part of a landscape that, along with Distrito's innovative approach to Mexican fare, creates what is perhaps Philadelphia's most unusual dining experience.

To formulate the look and feel of Distrito, Garces and designer Jun Aizaki of Crème Design Collective traveled to Mexico City to soak in the cultural nuances that drive D.F.'s pulsing scene. "Every aspect of the restaurant relates back to our trip," Garces said. "We wanted to transport people back to that environment."

They have. Entering Distrito for the first time can be as dizzying and exhilarating as walking the streets of an unfamiliar foreign country. Thanks to Aizaki's modern touches, the result is a setting that's playful yet sophisticated.

Crisp white saloon doors swing open to reveal vibrant pink and green walls. The long marquee above the bar — copied from La Merced, one of Mexico City's largest markets — announces daily drink specials. A couple and their two young children dine inside a refurbished Volkswagen Beetle, a typical Mexico City taxi cab. On the way up to the second level of the 250-seat space, a projector shoots old films onto a large wall screen, fueling the restaurant's kinetic hum. A mariachi stands on the staircase landing belting out "Sweet Caroline" en Español.

Dual themes of playfulness and sophistication are echoed in Distrito's menu. Garces and his chef de cuisine, Tim Spinner, who formerly helmed Garces' Amada, turn out dishes that are festive while still retaining a sense of tradition. Dig underneath it all, though, and you'll be wowed by layers of elegant, complex flavor. It's this harmonious juxtaposition of fun and fancy that makes the fare so inspired.

A great poster dish is the tuetano, or bone marrow, that Garces says he saw everywhere in Mexico City. It was like a rite of passage to see how long I could hold the piping-hot femur, which had been poached in a savory beef broth, before burning my hand as I feverishly scraped out the succulent herb breadcrumb-topped marrow from inside. I drooled into my napkin as I fashioned my own wraps with the traditional accompaniments of onions, jalapeño and cilantro on house-made tortillas that came tied up with a dainty ribbon of dried corn husk. Distrito upgrades this staple by including its own bacon marmalade, made with a reduction of balsamic and onions, which gives the dish sweetness and complexity. It's primal fun, but the flavors are luxurious and refined.

Another favorite of mine is Distrito's new-world interpretation of a fish taco. The kitchen updated a mahi mahi taco dish Garces invented when he helmed Stephen Starr's El Vez by quick-frying hamachi coated in crushed plantains. Zippy chipotle remoulade, rich avocado and refreshing house-pickled red cabbage align to give this dish balance so precise you might mistake it for an Olympic gymnast.

This commitment to balance is a seam that runs through Distrito's menu. Rich, sliced-to-order big-eye tuna fanning the inside of a wide martini gelato glass is equalized by delicately spicy coconut serrano ginger sauce, a bright lime sorbet and crispy mini tortilla rounds that provide contrasting texture in this ceviche.

Distrito's refreshing house margarita also aces the tightrope. This smart version of the classic cocktail draws just the right amount of sweetness from simple syrup to dovetail brilliantly with fresh-squeezed orange and lime juices. A decorative lime peel on top stands in for a standard lime wedge — if you squeezed one of those into the drink, it would upset all that thoughtful chemistry. The lemon and lime zest brewed into the Dock Street Limón adds a cool complement to the hoppiness of the Kölsch-style beer, made exclusively for Distrito by the Baltimore Avenue brewpub.

The upscaling at Distrito isn't limited to nuevo plates, either — old-world staples also deal in complexity. The beef tongue used for the lengua tacos receives a traditional red chili braise that allows the meat's gamey flavors to unfold like the finish on a great wine. Black truffles and a béchamel made from huitlacoche (a corn fungus that's a delicacy in Mexico) give the traditional los hongos, a mushroom mix on corn masa turnovers, profound depth.

There were a few minor disappointments. The rabbit loin in an amarillo mole was slightly overdone, and the subtlety of the yellow chili- and pineapple-scented sauce seemed to get lost in the white rice. The oddly shaped half-beer glass used to serve esquites, a corn snack food spooned into paper cups with lime and cheese on the streets of Mexico City, caused some of the flavors to funnel to the bottom, preventing me from appreciating all of the decorative flourishes. And I couldn't detect any of the promised spiciness in the Pastel de Chocolate, a molten chocolate cake, though the avocado ice cream it came with was outstanding.

You don't expect to be greeted with haute cuisine in such a frenetic atmosphere, even when Garces is involved. After all, the key element driving the charm and success of Amada and Tinto is a rustic, homey feel. But here, in part, it's the mild discontinuity created by marrying food of this caliber with a buzzing environment that helps Distrito deliver such a refreshing slug of tonic. I guess it just goes to show that you never know what you'll find when you peek underneath the mask.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Distrito | 3945 Chestnut St., 215-222-1657, distritorestaurant.com

Open for lunch Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Open for dinner Sun., 5-10 p.m.; Mon.-Thu., 5-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5 p.m.-mid.

Small plates and tacos, $6-$12

Larger plates, $8-$18

Reservations recommended

Wheelchair accessible