Higher Ground

Kite & Key's beer selection is flying high, but the food needs more spark.

The 1800 block of Callowhill, also known as Franklintown, is experiencing a mini-restaurant boom. In addition to the recently opened King of Tandoor and the second Sabrina's, the street's also home to Kite & Key, a new spot from Bishop's Collar alums Jim Kirk and Jake Hampson.

Four large flat screens allow you to watch the Eagles, the Phillies and at least one other event simultaneously from almost any part of the loud, bilevel 60-seater. French doors open up to the sidewalk that, along with a side patio, has 40 to 50 more seats, making it one of the most enviable al fresco dining arenas around.

Given the TVs and some of the menu items (Cajun fries, wings, ribs), Kite & Key feels more like a sports bar than the gastropub it's been billed as. But Kirk's not one to be anchored by labels. "If you have good beers on tap, good food and good service, then hopefully things will take care of themselves," he says.

Indeed, when it comes to beer, the Kite's soaring. There are currently 30 brews by the bottle and 16 on tap, with an emphasis on regional choices (including one of my faves, Victory's hoppy, herbaceous Prima Pils).

The kitchen, on the other hand, doesn't complete the circuit. Spicy pineapple wings, served with a puzzling "nest" of pickled carrots, showed up nearly petrified. Pan-fried crab cake sliders, too, had little flavor, though the accompanying gazpacho was refreshing. I enjoyed the house seafood seasoning that flavored moist tilapia in the grilled fish tacos, but an out-of-place Asian slaw topper gave them an unpleasantly soggy texture. I was into the roast pork loin sandwich despite the broccoli rabe coming out under-sautéed.

House-made pastas delivered a more positive experience. Though the sage could have been more integrated into the dish, I loved the crispy pan sear on the housemade gnocchi. The delicious ricotta and spinach ravioli, with wild mushrooms and sun-dried tomatoes, was also a smart pick.

The from-scratch desserts — made by sous chef Jack Allingham's fiancée, Elaine Gill — are truly electric. Her double chocolate cheesecake is what all desserts should aspire to be — sensual and luxurious, the dense delight strikes the perfect balance, deep cocoa with a breathy tease of sweetness.

As of now, the Kite's a great neighborhood haunt to grab a brew and a catch the game. Here's hoping they're able to amp up the menu.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Hours: Open daily, 11 a.m.-2 a.m.

Appetizers: $3-$8; Entrées: $8-$15.50

Wheelchair accessible