Tremendous Tartares

Rarefied

by Felicia D'Ambrosio

If you don't have a Lebanese grandmother with a superior butcher connection, order the kibbe naya at Zahav. Freshly ground lamb is seasoned with allspice, harissa, mint, scallions, olive oil, lemon juice and cumin for a flavor party extravaganza. A helping of bulghur wheat adds texture to this cool kibbe.

Almaz serves this traditional Ethiopian dish of lean minced beef seasoned with mitmita (very spicy chili powder) and ghee (clarified butter) for a rich tartare you can scoop up with a flat of spongy injera bread. Exercise choice when you order yours: tré (truly raw) or lebleb (slightly sautéed).

Chef/owner Peter Woolsey modernizes a classic concept with his napoleon of cubed salmon mixed with chopped egg, cornichons and shallots. A dijon mustard vinaigrette gently "cooks" the fish a bit. The salmon is capped with French puy lentils and a dollop of crème fraîche; the plate gets a swirl of blood orange vinaigrette for a final fancy flourish.

David Katz of Mémé doesn't do elaborate menu details. The description of his top sirloin tartare reads "salty potato chips, quail egg," which just about sums up the accompaniments of this small plate. The exotic addition of curry, however, ensures his dish will not be confused with any lesser pretenders.