Q-rious

Q-Ba

by David Snyder

In Cuba, the sale of appliances has been prohibited since the '90s due to an energy crunch. But shortly after replacing brother Fidel as president earlier this year, Raul Castro lifted the ban on the distribution of computers, DVDs and other electronic goods. Toasters, however, won't be legal until 2010.

Much like the beleaguered country, Q-ba, the Cuban-style restaurant/lounge in Northern Liberties, is also a work in progress. The vibe is authentic and rustic. The simple second-floor dining room boasts dark hardwood floors, stucco walls and Mexican colonial dining chairs. Downstairs, the well-heeled vintage tile floor in the old-school bar is the perfect place for free salsa lessons on Thursday nights. The piecemeal collection of comfy seats in the first-floor lounge looks out onto gritty Girard Avenue. It might be as close as you can get to Cuba without violating federal travel law.

Right now, though, most of the dishes on the current menu are more Mexican than Cuban — and many are in need of fine-tuning. A shrimp-stuffed avocado looked tempting on paper, but a mayo-heavy chipotle cream sauce pushed the already rich dish over the edge. Though it contained fruit, the sopa de gazpacho was virtually indistinguishable from the complimentary salsa.

The chicken in the pollo al rum was bland enough to be served in a retirement home. Had I been blindfolded when I tasted the camarones a la diablo, the thick sweet-and-sour sauce covering the shrimp could've convinced me that I was eating Chinese. Pan-seared beef tips and skirt steak offered more flavor, but many of the dishes are ones you could easily make yourself at home (for less money).

But chef Paulo Carbajal, formerly of Conshohocken's Coyote Crossing, does have an enviable touch when it comes to sautéed seafood. Carbajal coats his tilapia with just enough batter to give the outside a delicate crunch while still keeping the inside moist and tender. The dish's mango sauce also adds a nice balance.

Carbajal says he's working on a new menu featuring authentic recipes borrowed from owner Cuba Casona's grandmother. "No one is going to have the food like we're going to have here," he says. We won't have to wait long for upgrades — they hope to roll out the new menu later this month, long before Havana residents will be permitted to buy a toaster.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Q-Ba | 1176 N. Third St., 215-922-1722

Hours: Wed.-Sat., 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; Sun., 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; closed Mon.-Tue.

Appetizers, $5-$8; Entrées, $12-$17

Wheelchair accessible