The Magic Powder

Ekta

by David Snyder

There's nothing like biting into a classic dish at a new restaurant and having that rare "a-ha!" moment. You can't help but wonder: What makes this interpretation so different? A special technique? A secret ingredient? Getting a chef to show his cards in this respect is usually impossible. But when I spoke with Raju Bhattarai, chef/co-owner of Ekta, he revealed what gives his plates the edge.

"Garam masala," Bhattarai cited when asked about the ingredients in the dishes I ate. This spice blend is very common in Indian cuisine. But what is unique about Ekta's, I learned after some gentle prodding, is that Bhattarai makes it from scratch by blending more than 10 different components, including coriander, black and green cardamom and star anise. "It's hard," Bhattarai told me, "but it brings real good flavor and good taste."

Indeed it does. One of the best examples of this is the lamb chettinad. Bhattarai's garam masala gives the Southern Indian staple's coconut-y richness and green chili zip a solid, intricate structure on which to climb.

It doesn't hurt that the fresh cheese and elegant cashew paste in the mutter paneer are both homemade. But this dish also owes its depth to Bhattarai's sultry seasoning. I soaked up every last drop with inventive rosemary naan while huddled in the quaint eight-seat dining area. (Bhattarai plans to expand soon to offer fine dining next door.) Even the juicy malai seekh kebab spends time with the magic powder before seeing the tandoor, granting it a long, complex finish.

But there's a more fundamental reason why Ekta has become a mecca for Indian food fanatics: Bhattarai's passion for his craft. You don't expect to get much from chicken vindaloo besides heat. But this chef allows spices and chilies to relax in malt vinegar overnight before grinding and mixing them with mustard oil, mustard seed and curry leaf, a concoction that grants the dish layers that build from a puff of sweetness to a deep, mature blaze. "It's very hard to make," Bhattarai said. "It takes three to four hours to prepare." And yet it costs only $9.50.

Is it Bhattarai's skill or his tireless dedication that makes his restaurant such a hot spot? Hard to tell. But Ekta proves one thing for sure: Blending honest ingredients with a passionate chef is the poshest spice of all.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Hours: Mon.-Fri, 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m.; Sat., noon-9:30 p.m.; Sun, noon-9 p.m.

Appetizers, $2.50-$50; Entrées, $7.50-$12.50

BYOB, Delivery available