A Lasting Mémé-ry

Chef David Katz sees simple cooking as an opportunity to impress.

by David Snyder

Michael T. Regan DUCKIN' A: Chef David Katz's pan-seared duck breast entrée (or "Larg-er" plate) is dressed up with beets and chard.

When was the last time you ate roast chicken that was memorable?

I'm not talking about chicken that's merely well-prepared. I'm talking about a dish that wrapped you in a warm blanket. A dish that washed away the burdens of adulthood and — for a few moments, at least — made the unsettled world we live in today seem a little less complicated. A dish that took you back home.

Maybe it's been since childhood. Or perhaps never. But this was the question that lingered with me for days after the first time I shared the roast chicken for two at chef/owner David Katz's new restaurant, Mémé (may-may).

The dish didn't jump off the menu the first time I dined at the Fitler Square spot Katz took over from Melograno. In fact, I ordered it on my second visit as an afterthought. Much like the high-walled chalkboard on which the dish is listed, it blends into the background as part of the unassuming vibe Katz has created at this cozy 42-seater. Mustard-colored walls and solid cherry wood tables radiate a soothing warmth. The playful silverware that decorates the ceiling's unique lighting fixtures reflects the glow from half-chrome bulbs. The intoxicating aromas wafting from the open kitchen and the driving pulse of The Police are interrupted only by the occasional server whizzing by to deliver a sizzling cast-iron skillet to an adjacent table.

"I definitely wanted a casual small place ... that's going to feel like you're in my house," Katz told me in an interview. "I wanted it to be comfortable and reflect everything that's me."

To give his restaurant an added personal touch, Katz persuaded one of his favorite artists, famed British illustrator Ralph Steadman, to create two logos for him, including a gonzo depiction of Katz's Moroccan grandmother — or Mémé, as Katz used to call her — after whom the restaurant is named. Katz said Steadman hadn't done a restaurant logo before, but he reached out to him on a whim, sending him a short description of his philosophy without knowing whether he would agree. Then one day, without any warning, the first image arrived.

"He just did it and sent it," Katz said. "I guess he liked what he heard."

What may have persuaded the artist to accept the project is Katz's practice of using bold flavors with uncomplicated food. "I don't take any time to myself to turn my kitchen into some lab and figure out crazy things that work with each other," Katz said. "I like to try flavors that work, that the public knows work, and execute them with good technique."

Katz's menu is broken down into "Small-ish" dishes (similar to tapas-size plates), "Larg-er" plates (smaller than entrées) and family-style plates "For Two." At first, it may seem counterintuitive that a restaurant whose name and décor are grounded in comfort and simplicity would make ordering seem complicated-ish. But like the other small-plate spots in the city that have paved the way, I found that Katz's upgraded model naturally lends itself to sharing, giving us the freedom to experience more flavors without necessarily breaking the bank.

And you'll want that freedom. For Katz, "rustic" and "simple" are not terms of limitation — they're opportunities to impress. While the kitchen builds all of its plates with elements that have compatible chemistries, Mémé is at its best when it applies a technique in an inventive way to make classic flavors taste even better than you remember.

That roast chicken is a prime example. The legs from the organic, free-range bird are cooked in duck fat. But before the breasts are browned, they're infused with foie gras, thyme and garlic via a sous vide cooking process. The result is a heavenly classic that's both crispy and improbably juicy. The accompanying Anson Mills grits, pumped up with caramelized Vidalia onions and a generous portion of shiitake mushrooms, complete a deeply soulful dish that can illuminate the darkest of days.

The light-bodied 2005 Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard Bourgogne I brought added a graceful touch to the chicken without upsetting the balance. And at $23.49, you can't find a better Burgundy for the price at the PLCB.

But Mémé won't be a BYOB for long. Katz hopes to receive the green light from the PLCB in January to serve beer and an approachable wine list featuring "good artisanal juice."

Mémé has other unique stand-outs. Deshelled mussels are dusted in Wondra flour and sautéed with olive oil, herbs and a refreshing blast of lemon juice in a cast-iron skillet that continues to crisp up the bivalves long after the hot pan hits your table. When Mémé brülées foie gras, adds golden apples and maple sherry and slides a delicate puff pastry underneath, it becomes a transcendental homemade pie. Though listedas a "Small-ish" plate,thisheavenly treat could easily become an excuse to eat liver for dessert.

Other dishes here may not be as bold, but the restraint in allowing fundamental combinations to speak for themselves is refreshing. Though it was more delicate than I expected, I liked the tender wild boar mixed with homemade fettuccine. One of the PLCB's current Chairman's Selections, the $13.99 Les Bois du Menestrel Vacqueyras — a Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre blend — brought out more of the gamey and herbal flavors of the Tuscan classic. It's hard to go wrong with pan-seared duck breast alongside beets and chard. The kitchen capitalizes on the perfectly cooked skate's affinity for capers.

The few minor disappointments appeared at the extremes. Though the lamb "For Two" was well-prepared alongside a buttery blend of Idahos and Yukon Golds, its bare appeal came off tame compared to that excellent shareable chicken dish. Although I appreciated the aggressiveness of the beef tartare for the first few bites, the cumin eventually became overwhelming.

Desserts, however, excel at articulating Katz's commitment to simplicity. I loved the sophistication the orange confit gave the sweet espresso pot de crème, and I'll be counting the days until the kitchen brings back the house-made spiced pumpkin gelato to pair with its moist brown butter cake. But the raw, elemental purity of the intense ganache cake, paired with unadulterated vanilla gelato, is an experience all chocolate lovers must have. "We push the limits as to how simple we can make food," Katz told me about this last dish.

Mémé's fresh take on rustic fare is bound to make an impression you won't soon forget. But even if you do, it'll surely be around to remind you for a long time to come.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

Mémé | 2201 Spruce St., 215-735-4900, memerestaurant.com

Hours: Mon., Wed.-Thu., 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 5:30-11 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. (brunch) and 5-9 p.m.; closed Tue.

"Small-ish" dishes, $9-$17; "Larg-er" plates, $19-$25; "For Two" dishes, $28-$30

Currently BYOB. Wheelchair accessible