On the House

S&H Kebab House

by David Snyder

I was examining the detailed menu posted outside through a haze of green neon when a man suddenly burst out of the restaurant's entrance like a trap door spider.

"Are you ready to have a great dinner this evening?" he fired. Though technically a question, his carnival-like delivery carried the force of an offer we couldn't refuse.

I later learned this was Sal Kucuk — the "S" in the recently opened S&H Kebab House. S&H occupies Overtures' former digs on East Passyunk near South Street (for now, some of the dated Parisian decor remains). Kucuk, who also owns diners in Roxborough and New Jersey, is hands-on at his 85-seater, uncorking wine and dutifully checking on customers. Chef Huseyin Yuksel (the "H" in the name) runs the kitchen.

On my first visit, I had doubts as to whether the food could live up to Kucuk's showmanship. Baba ghanoush had an unpleasant gelatinous texture; a soupy yogurt sauce drowned manti (Turkish dumplings).

But the generous kebab sampler I had on my second trip — it fed four of us for just $21.95 — made up for it. Lamb and chicken adana (minced meat molded onto skewers) delivered respectable heat. Gyro-like döner, lamb layered with veal, was tasty; both lamb cubes and meatballs were moist and flavorful. Other dishes satisfied, too — I enjoyed the light, dill-spiked Turkish feta wrapped inside fried yufka (Turkish phyllo dough). Although I wished it had more ground lamb, it's hard to go wrong when the eggplant-based moussaka's topped with a thick, bubbling layer of kasar (Turkish mozzarella).

Some standards, like the hummus and the sauce accompanying the deliciously crunchy falafel, needed more seasoning. Shouldn't be too hard to remedy, as the kitchen's capable of bolder flavors — putting items like caviar-whipped tarama (think hummus with intense salinity) on the menu is proof.

Kucuk later told me in an interview that he aims to make sure diners "leave here with a smile on their face." If you try the desserts, that's a virtual guarantee. Firin sütlac (a firm oven-baked rice pudding) was fresh and light; I loved the burnt caramel flavor in the kazandibi (a milk pudding). You'll be wiping dribbles of honey sauce off your chin after sampling the flaky baklava.

Walking out after meal number two, Kucuk caught us outside. "Hope you enjoyed your meal, guys," he said. "Come back again soon."

With our bellies full, it was impossible to respond verbally. But we certainly had no trouble smiling.

(david.snyder@citypaper.net)

S&H Kebab House | 611 E. Passyunk Ave., 267-639-3214, kebabhouseonline.com

Hours: Mon.-Thu., noon-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., noon-1 a.m.; Sun., noon-10 p.m.

Soups, salads, appetizers, $3.95-$8.95; Kebabs, entrées, $11.95-$21.95

Wheelchair accessible