Strange Grains

Killer Cereal

by Lauren F. Friedman

Most people first encounter these nutty grains in a salad with celery and walnuts. But they're far more versatile than that: Swap them for rice or couscous in almost any recipe to add fiber. New York Times food writer Mark Bittman suggests tossing them with chopped scallions, sesame oil and soy sauce, and then throwing in some sliced seitan.

Aztec warriors relied on amaranth to give them strength, so Spanish conquistadors eliminated it almost entirely in the 16th century. Luckily, the discovery of the ancient grain's remarkable nutritional content led to its resurgence in the 1980s. Amaranth is earthy and flavorful on its own, cooks as quickly as pasta and can even be popped into a Rice Krispy-like snack.

Quinoa is so 2008. Hulled millet — which at 99 cents per pound is even cheaper than barley — is extremely filling and has long been a staple of diets all over the world. It can be tossed into soups to add heft or mixed with flour and veggies to make croquettes, and it's usually a safe choice for celiacs.

Before spring arrives permanently, set aside the next cold day to cook up some bulgur wheat, the ultimate winter comfort food. Bulgur is a soft, hearty grain that soaks up the flavor of everything else in the pot. Try a thick stew with bulgur, cannellini beans, diced tomatoes, broccoli, parsley, thyme and garlic, and save the leftovers for the next time you need to fight 40-mph winds to get home.

Buckwheat porridge may have had its heyday in Eastern European shtetls at the turn of the century, but with the South Beach-induced backlash against refined grains, it may be ready for a comeback. It can be boiled for a hot breakfast (just add honey) or fried with bowtie pasta to make "kasha varnishkes," a dish that would make any Jewish grandmother proud.

All of these grains are available in the bulk aisles at Whole Foods (929 South St. and 2001 Pennsylvania Ave.) and Essene Market (719 S. Fourth St.).